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Runway Music: Electro-Indie-It-Girls
The cycle of fashion trends, reoccurring every 20 years or so, is getting shorter and shorter. One of the products of this is the"indie-sleaze" revival — a trend that only had its hay day around ten years ago is back on the runway. FEDERICO SARGENTONE, our resident runway music anaylist, is back with a second edition of his column, explaining the sonic implications of trend revivals in the context of the AW-23-24 menswear shows in Milan and Paris.
By
FEDERICO SARGENTONE
Do We Need to Stop Thinking?
The art critic MITCH SPEED’s relationship to Walter Benjamin, like a lot of people’s relationship to Walter Benjamin, is post-ironic, “simultaneously very serious and a bit cringe.” Although it is the art academic’s cliché to cite him, the presence of his writings is inescapable in this late age of mechanical reproduction. LUCY BROOME and Speed interrogate Benjamin's “aura” and the disconnect between art and its criticism.
By
The Failed Desires Index: Tiny Skirts and Bigger Belts
The history of garment regulation is not one to be contested. The weight of clothing is a loaded countenance, historically controlled by sumptuary laws, to make sure the overtly luxurious are not overly indulgent. ANNA SOPHIE BERGER recontextualizes the once maximalist styles seen in Renaissance paintings into stripped down stick figure drawings and proposes a visualized index of our failed desires. In conversation with CLAIRE KORON ELAT, the two discuss the nonsense of commenting on contemporary fashion, joining a mega-gallery, and the non-existent aspirational citizen.
By
CLAIRE KORON ELAT
ALL HAIL 070 SHAKE
Borrowing from the Latin phrase meaning "mode of living" or "way of life," the title of 070 Shake's debut album "Modus Vivendi" has resulted in a slew of accolades for the quickly rising star. The term for which the title is named is often used to denote an agreement between disparate forces, allowing them to coexist in peace. The title seems apt, considering 070 Shake sits at the center of a universe of her own making, where powerful songwriting and intimate insights into the artist's inner emotions work in tandem rather than in opposition.
By
Samuel Hyland
DESTINY’S CHILD
032c Readytowear Autumn/Winter 2023
Rest In Paradise: Balkrishna Doshi (1927-2023)
Balkrishna Doshi designs buildings, but he doesn't believe in owning them. Meet the 91-year-old Pritzker-prize-winning architect who helped Le Corbusier build Chandigarh and brought Brutalism to India.
By
Sven Michaelsen
Angle of Attack: MONCLER Exploits the Advantage of Terrain
King of the Mountain, Top of the Rock.
By
"Don't be gay": HUGO BAUSCH BELBACHIR Courts Bravery and Revenge
In a radical exploitation of queer iconography and pornography, "Don't be gay," curated by Hugo Bausch Belbachir, allows a forgotten generation, one decimated by the AIDS epidemic, to constitute a political critique. Structurally sound and now playing on their own terms, the Juvenile Delinquents want a rematch.
By
Henry Levinson
Bad Principle Created Chaos, Darkness, and Woman
History has its fair share of violent femmes, from Valerie Solans to Simone de Beauvoir. HARLEY WEIR offers up a certain brutality when it comes to seeing: the petrifying female gaze. Her book Beauty Papers is an evocatively female photo story that flirts with the grotesque, the seemingly inanimate, and the all too uncanny.
By
LUCY BROOME
Strange Bedfellow: An Ode to the Outsider with SOUFIANE ABABRI
Beloved French vagabond and occasional petty criminal Jean Genet was a prisoner of love and nothing else, not least the hypocritical indulgences of the bourgeoisie. Moroccan-French artist Soufiane Ababri takes a deep inspiration from Genet and works the perspectives of the overlooked into his drawings and live performances. Rejecting the imposed understandings of his environment from the domineering outsider perspective, Ababri (re)builds a world of his own, from the comfort of his bed no less.
INVENTING KIM KARDASHIAN: Christopher Kulendran Thomas
As we move one step closer to the world becoming an E-Machina territory, CHRISTOPHER KULENDRAN THOMAS takes us down an uncanny valley in conversation with CLAIRE KORON ELAT. His film The Finesse, on view at KW Institute for Contemporary Art, Berlin in his show "Another World" in collaboration with Annika Kuhlmann, subverts the boundaries between historical archives and sci-fi propositions, including algorithmically generated scenes that are never quite the same twice.
By
Claire Koron Elat
BRENDA'S BUSINESS with GSTAAD GUY
"Eat the rich" will certainly not make you friends in Gstaad — the infamous holiday destination for wealthy royalty and celebrities. GSTAAD GUY, however, is at an ambiguous intersection of belonging to the exclusive circle while simultaneously mocking it. He has made a business out of the latter, letting his fictional characters, Constance and Colton, do the satiric work for him. BRENDA WEISCHER talked to Gstaad Guy about his oxymoronic collaborations with Loro Piana and Philipp Plein, his former full-time corporate job, and building friendships by mimicking people.
By
BRENDA WEISCHER
Why is everything so beautiful? On at Art Basel in Miami Beach
The art fair: what are we really selling here? CLAIRE KORON ELAT enters the late capitalist fever dream that is Art Basel in Miami Beach. Why is everything so beautiful there? Tanned skin, fresh BBLs, and four-course-raw-vegan sunset dinners, kombucha cocktails all-inclusive, leaves Koron Elat questioning the hyper glamorization of the art world — all whilst swapping her Amina Muaddi heels for the Pilates mom’s favorite sneaker, On.
By
CLAIRE KORON ELAT
ON MESSAGE: Matt Lambert and Erika Lust
In his newest cruise cultural cinematic survey, MATT LAMBERT has collaborated with the indie porn director ERIKA LUST and delved deep into Berlin’s nightclub scene. In Klappe, Billy Vega, Tiresia, Kaiden Ford, Cain, and Alex Rubberax meet not in the darkroom but in the even more ubiquitous bathroom stall soaked in body fluids. The film is a sensual portrait of queer intimacy and the potential of a bathroom stall’s architecture. In their interview, VICTORIA CAMBLIN discusses with Lust and Lambert if sex still sells.
By
VICTORIA CAMBLIN
DEAR JEAN-LUC GODARD
Each one of the silly-surreal crash-edits, also known as innovative filmmaking distributed on TikTok, is a great-great- grandchild of what JEAN-LUC GODARD introduced in À bout de souffle, argues SHUMON BASAR. In his eulogy to the pioneer of French New Wave — and cinema in general — Basar explores some chapters of the director’s grand oeuvre.
By
SHUMON BASAR
BONES AND WHEELS: Daniel Hölzl
Berlin-based artist DANIEL HÖLZL has not built the ribcage of a giant but the chassis of an Airbus A300. In his work, currently on view at 032c Workshop on Kantstrasse, Hölzl has amalgamated original and replica in a mechanical, yet uniquely crafted sculpture. In conversation with CLAIRE KORON ELAT, the two discuss the ambivalence of art and commerce, galleries and stores, and original versus replica.
By
CLAIRE KORON ELAT
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BRENDA'S BUSINESS with RICK OWENS
The third edition of BRENDA’S BUSINESS is a ceremony with fashion’s Lord of Darkness. BRENDA WEISCHER aka @brendahashtag is in conversation with RICK OWENS about his humble beginnings on Hollywood Boulevard, his first sale, and dark and mysterious luxury corsets.
In conversation with EBONY L. HAYNES and NIKITA GALE
52 Walker ran Nikita Gale's “END OF SUBJECT” at the start of 2022. Together with friend and curator Ebony L. Haynes, the pair explore power relations and the politics of visibility influence the perception of an artwork. In the latest instalment of her column, Katja Horvat uncovers how Gale and Haynes hope to better establish how art is perceived by the public.
By
Katja Horvat
INTIMACY ABOVE ALL: Montblanc x Naruto
The iconic manga series Naruto revolves around a young ninja coming of age who attempts to find his own identity while inheriting tradition. The Montblanc x Naruto collection is another story of cultural lineage and intergenerational dialogue. The brand’s creative director MARCO TOMASETTA reveals his philosophy of taking writing as a consistent point of departure.
By
032c Issue #42 "DRAIN GANG" Winter 2022/2023
Forgive me Lord, for I have Drained.
PHOTOGRAPHIC PERFORMANCES: Charlotte James and Clémentine Schneidermann
The collision course of haute couture and Cymraeg can be aptly described as "Bleak Fabulous." The dull light of the Valleys of South Wales is warm in its own way. It provides the perfect pallet for creative duo photographer CLÉMENTINE SCHNEIDERMANN and filmmaker/creative director CHARLOTTE JAMES. Here, they collaborate with the local youth, engaging in community-oriented projects that produce imagery which encapsulates a raw glamour, invigorated by the conscious engagement of the children portrayed. It's Called Ffasiwn — look it up.
By
Lucy Broome
A MARTINE ROSE SLIP: Jordan/Martin Hell
Maybe we should all indulge in lying as a way of subverting the gloomy reality we live in. JORDAN/MARTIN HELL deals with all kinds of lies, particularly those that have the potentiality to constitute the bedrock for his artworks. CLAIRE KORON ELAT was in conversation with Hell about inscrutable press releases, fake-academic papers, and runway models.
By
RUNWAY MUSIC: Musicology for Clothes
“There is nothing more effective than a vortex of strings. Everyone loves a good string melody, because it is direct, it is heartbreaking, it is classical, it is humane.” In the first round of his column Runway Music, FEDERICO SARGENTONE reflects on the, sometimes borderline, sonic field of this year’s fashion months. Has the runway become a theater stage?
By
FEDERICO SARGENTONE
The Book of Gucci According to Alessandro Michele
The Italian’s arrival as Gucci’s creative director was more like an alien invasion than a typical fashion coronation. It was fast. Overwhelming. Utterly strange and world-dominating. Michael Ebert and Sven Michaelsen visited Michele in Rome to discuss the burden of vanity, the terror of symmetry, and the faith of being devoted to objects.
By
Michael Ebert and Sven Michaelsen
JEAN DAWSON: CHAOTIC GOOD*
What if Morrissey was Black? What if Kurt Cobain was from Tijuana? These are the rhetorical prompts that guide Jean Dawson’s discography. In a new interview, the musician and filmmaker recounts a childhood shaped by Tumblr, Blockbuster and Mexican-American border tensions. Discussing his sophomore album, CHAOS NOW*, Dawson illuminates the overlooked similarities between lowriders and fawns and what it means to be “a monster of your own experience.”
By
Cassidy George
VISUAL SOUNDSCAPES: Álvaro Guilherme and Daria Kolosova
Through ICEBERG’s FW-22 collection, DARIA KOLOSOVA and ÁLVARO GUILHERME experiment with notions of sound and visuality, and how the two realms can be interlaced, in a speculative shoot.
By
CLAIRE KORON ELAT
RAF SIMONS RETROSPECTIVE: 1995–2015
20 years after its inception in 1995, the Raf Simons label had become an oracle for a pre-Internet notion of beauty and freedom. It’s a brand rooted in the site specificity of IRL subculture, the iconoclasm of 20th century design, and the melodramatic land-scape of suburban isolation. Yet, after 40 collections and counting, the man behind RAF SIMONS remains an enigma. Published for the first time online, 032c’s dossier on Simons from our instantly sold out 27th issue includes an essay and interview, an archival shoot by Willy Vanderperre, and a poem by Peter De Potter.
By
PIERRE ALEXANDRE DE LOOZ
LOGO SCARF
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BRENDA’S BUSINESS with ISAMAYA FFRENCH
In the second edition of her column BRENDA'S BUSINESS, BRENDA WEISCHER aka @brendahashtag, talks with famed makeup artist and business owner ISAMAYA FFRENCH on the physical strength needed to lug kits to runways shows, and the dangers birds pose to interview subjects such as herself.
By
Brenda Weischer
LANCEY FOUX: Purple Reign
In celebration of the shoe and kick-off of the UK leg of his tour, LANCEY FOUX will debut the new Converse x A-COLD-WALL* Geo Forma shoe. CASSIDY GEORGE spoke with the enigmatic British rapper about the fantasy of anonymity and the undervalued “art” of business.
By
Cassidy George
BRANDING BHUTAN
High atop the Himalayas sits the Kingdom of Bhutan. Nestled between two nuclear superpowers, the small mountain nation remains fiercely independent despite its towering neighbors. As Bhutan re-opened its borders to travelers, the country turned to London’s MMBP & Associates for a new identity to reassert itself on the global stage – and within its own borders. VICTORIA CAMBLIN climbed to basecamp to ask MMBP founders JULIEN BEAUPRÉ STE MARIE and HANK PARK how luxury industry strategy can inform the rebrand of an entire country.
LEATHER ''OFFICER'S'' JACKET
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HÖR: Berlin’s Favorite Radio Rave
Berlin's tiled radio station has become one of the most famous venues in cyberspace. Their streamed DJ sets carried club fanatics through lockdown, and the return of nightlife has only further cemented their importance in the world of electronic music. With their new website, fashion collaborations and festival stages, the duo behind HÖR continue to grow their influence and evolve into something bigger and better.
By
CASSIDY GEORGE
CULTIVATED ASPHYXIA: “Exposition N°120 (maybe)” at Balice Hertling
“Exposition N°120 (maybe)” is BALICE HERTLING’s perhaps 120th exhibition. Including MAX ERNST, KAYODE OJO, REENA SPAULINGS, and ROBERT MAPPLETHORPE, among others, the exhibition is a survey of the gallery’s 15-year long program. On this occasion, CLAIRE KORON ELAT questions, in a Bourdieu-esque manner, if taste is innate or aquired, and if some of us desire Kelly bags (sometimes filled with escargots) because of their impeccability or because they are equivalent to buying and owning seven scooters.
By
Claire Koron Elat
OTHER PEOPLE: Ser Serpas
SER SERPAS uses other people’s things. Splintering chairs, an Ikea Kallax shelf, and decayed sofas are part of the artist’s sculptural repertoire. CLAIRE KORON ELAT talks with Serpas about political art, concealing identities, and returning to academia.
By
CLAIRE KORON ELAT
HEAD OVER HEELS: AVAVAV
A cat always lands on its feet, but AVAVAV’s monstrous creations attract the opposite effect. VICTORIA CAMBLIN slides into creative director BEATE KARLSSON’s DMs, discussing the gravitas of status in the fashion industry, versus the anti-gravity presentations of the label.
By
VICTORIA CAMBLIN
CLOTHING OF CALAMITY: The Secondhand Trade in Uganda
Who gets to decide when poor-quality secondhand clothing floods local markets in Uganda and other East African countries? While colonial powers were in decision-making positions for centuries, Ugandan brands, such as Buzigahill, Gwavah, or Catherine & Sons, reinterpret the synthetical waste of the West — a product of its capitalist over-consumption — in their designs. DECLAN GIBBON argues how designers in Uganda are renouncing the calamitous destiny of forgotten garments.
By
Declan Gibbon
The Spiral Walker: JULIE MEHRETU
Meditatively tracing out her forms whilst conversing, JULIE MEHRETHU utilizes the subconscious ebb and flow of unmediated lines to maintain focus. DRUGA CHEW-BOSE talks with the artist, and they ponder: "How much unknowing is a part of knowing?"
By
DURGA CHEW-BOSE
Priapic architectural tissues: TOM BURR in conversation with PIERRE-ALEXANDRE MATEOS and CHARLES TEYSSOU
TOM BURR has been investigating liminal spaces occupied by queer people since the 1990s. In a conversation between the artist and PIERRE-ALEXANDRE MATEOS and CHARLES TEYSSOU, hosted on the occasion of his show "Compressions" at Galerie Neu, the three discuss the politics of fetishism and excrement as an anti-civilizational trigger.
In Conversation: IRAK – KUNLE MARTINS AND BEN SOLOMON
IRAK, Manhattan's most legendary graffiti crew, have been leaving their mark on a the city for decades. The group has faced their own rollercoaster of ups and downs over their storied history. Lows of hardship, struggle, and loss and punctuated by highs of joy, community, and achieving something few others could ever dream of: becoming bonafide New York legends. KATJA HORVAT sits with KUNLE MARTINS and BEN SOLOMON to discuss the past, present, and future of IRAK.
By
KATJA HORVAT
CLOSE TO THE HEDGE: Kasia Kucharska
Kasia Kucharska debuted CLOSE TO THE HEDGE in Paris last week, presenting a collection with a garden theme. It turns out the technological process behind the label's signature latex lace has something in common with magazine production, too – or so argues 032c's Victoria Camblin.
4 months ago
''GUILTY'' CLASSIC BOMBER JACKET
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SMASHED COLLARBONES: Berlin Art Week 2022
Eating, slurping, and devouring – in some cases as sexual practices, in others as the actual consumption of food – pervaded Berlin Art Week 2022. Navigating through a web of bizarre desires, funky fantasy worlds, and splintered bones, joy was (not) found in a premium thick milkshake.
A Great Anomic Era: Ian Cheng
Cyber Simulacrum: IAN CHENG has created a computer generated world, that through AI simulations tells the story of “Life After BOB.” In the pursuit of creating a digital narrative imbued with aliveness, Chen discusses the IRL processes and inspirations behind the smoke and lazers.
"PIERCED" HIGHLAND BALACLAVA
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Finding Romance in the Grotesque: Jon Rafman
Can we ever experience our fully fleshed selfs? Or will we always be nothing more than mortal video game characters who are only a reference of a reference?
By
Claire Koron Elat
DEANA LAWSON: THE SELECTION OF IMAGES
"The photo-based artist DEANA LAWSON chose not to issue a statement about the selection of images." – Deana Lawson Studio, New York, 2020.
CONCEPT ENGINEER: Moncler's Remo Ruffini
How MONCLER CEO Remo Ruffini transformed the humble puffer jacket into a cultural status symbol. Celebrating 70 years of Moncler, 032c publishes our interview with Ruffini from our Winter 2021 print edition.
By
Joerg Koch
SKITTLES
Alice and her old pal the Rabbit have a big chat about drugs, sex, bugs, boys, sweets, and all kinds of weird feelings in the woods of Wonderland on a deep-fried summer night.
GUILTY TEE
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BRENDA’S BUSINESS with PETER DO
Interviewing the who's who of fashion is not for the faint of heart. Brenda Weischer aka @brendahashtag, takes on the challenge in her new column "Brenda's Business" in her first interview with the enigmatic fashion designer Peter Do.
By
Brenda Weischer
032c Readytowear Presents: THE FALL/WINTER 22–23 GUILTY COLLECTION LOOKBOOK
Mining a Counter-History from the Past: William S. Burroughs and Subcultures in Kansas
Lawrence, Kansas might nestled deep in the American heartland. Yet, for many punks, the small college town is the closest place to utopia they will ever know.
Cactus Store Collective: Happy Plants, Happy Life
Cactus Store, a plant-owned, human-operated collective focuses on improving relations between all forms of life on Earth.
MONA TOUGAARD in “The Whole World Glows Outside Your Eyes”
From 032c Magazine Issue #41: GOI MENASE and model ADIDAS x GUCCI for photographer SZILVESZTER MAKÓ in a shoot styled by RAS BARTRAM.
TRANSMISSIONS: Culturecure
Swapping champagne for intravenous infusions at a luxury lakeside retreat in Austria, TRANSMISSIONS columnist Jordan Richman realizes that the best cultural production happens far away from art world galas, downtown dinner debates, or the latest Balenciaga stunt. Real culture, he learns, lives within (literally).
5 months ago
Michael Heizer: DESERT CITY
"Thousands of years from now, when some cataclysm splits Nevada down to the dust we walk on today and an alien race – mute, telepathic, formless – comes across City, cracked and eroded, its fragments serried across the landscape like boundary stones, will it tell them anything about this time that resembles what we call art?" Michael Heizer’s "City" is finally open to the public. It has been six decades since the project's inception — a drop in the bucket compared to the tens of thousands of years land artwork of such scale aspires to remain on our earth. Mahfouz Sultan wrote on Heizer for us in 2021, and now the public can now take their first steps among this sprawling megasculpture hidden in the remote Nevada desert, by appointment of course.
By
Mahfuz Sultan
Maintenance of Curiosity: Oana Stănescu
Corri Spencer sits down with Romanian-born, NYC-based architect Oana Stănescu to discuss the development of her practice, and the confident ease in her approach to the countless larger than life projects she breathes life into.
By
Corri Spencer
bLAck pARty
Malik Flint — aka bLAck pARty — considers himself the Sun Ra of R&B. He spoke with us about his place within the music scene, the connection between his music and nature and the joy he feels as a new father.
GROSSE FREIHEIT: 032c Readytowear Spring/Summer 2023 Lookbook
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