“So, what if there’s no tomorrow? There wasn’t one today”: Calvin Klein Jeans and mytheresa.com Reissue 90s Classics

July 21, 2014

Alasdair McLellan photographs the stoicism of CK Jeans in 032c #18, 2009. Styled by Max Pearmain.

Calvin Klein Jeans and luxury e-commerce site mytheresa.com have relaunched the brand’s 1990s classics, including T-shirts, overalls, sweatshirts, and jean jackets. These were more than just standard casual-wear pieces—they characterised the visual universe created by photographer Herb Ritts and starring Kate Moss and Mark Wahlberg. They epitomised both heroine-chic minimalism and sporty nonchalant in formalism, but above all, CK Jeans has dressed the DGAF attitude.

1992 Calvin Klein ad featuring Kate Moss & Mark Wahlberg, photographed by Herb Ritts.

The reissue is loud with generational nepotism: Lottie Moss, Kate’s half sister, is the face of the campaign, which is photographed by Michael Avedon, Richard’s grandson. “The capsule is all about nostalgia for the 90s and that whole look feeling very right again,” said Calvin Klein Jean’s Global Creative Director, Kevin Carrigan. It’s both sexy and apathetic, conjuring a line from the 1990s classic Groundhog’s Day, starring Bill Murray: “Well, what if there’s no tomorrow? There wasn’t one today.”

2014 ad for Calvin Klein Jeans / mytheresa.com, featuring Lottie Moss, photographed by Michael Avedon.

www.calvinklein.com
www.mytheresa.com

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Ciao, Milano: Billboard Takeover Rebrands the Post-COVID City

Milan experienced the earliest and longest COVID lockdown in Europe. As the country moved into "Phase 3" in mid-June, billboards bereft of advertising (it's the first budget to go in any crisis) began to repopulate around Milan – not with the usual product and event marketing, but with imagery reflecting the collective whiplash experienced of a city thrown first indoors, then outside itself. Italian editor CARLO ANTONELLI explains in a letter from Milan. MoreJune 30, 2020

CONGRATS ON THE MEGA MOVES

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Mowalola Ogunlesi has been on our minds lately. When we spoke to her in 2018, she was fresh out of Central Saint Martins, where her fashion degree show, “Psychedelic,” had already begun to turn heads in London, and soon after, her designs started to appear on dedicated fan accounts on Instagram, on celebrities including Solange Knowles and Skepta, and eventually on the Fashion Week circuit. Earlier this week, Kim Kardashian West Instagrammed a pic of the Kardashian-West family celebrating Father’s Day in head-to-toe MOWALOLA looks. Days later, Kanye West announced that YEEZY had entered a 10-year partnership with Gap – and that the Yeezy Gap collaboration would be designed by the British-Nigerian designer.

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Read “Found Futures: Introducing the Mowalola Man” HERE!

photos: Ruth Ossai

Berlin Tuxedo: Parzival wears the 032c Apparel LoveSexDreams Terry shorts and jacket in blue.

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In late 2019, 032c magazine published BLACK HOLE CATALOG. At the time, an estimated four million people, many of them children and students, had participated in climate strikes unifying more than 150 countries worldwide against environmental destruction. This movement coalesced around an emotional vocabulary of fear. “Our house is on fire, and I want you to panic,” 16-year-old climate strike figurehead Greta Thunberg told the 2019 World Economic Forum. Responding to this crisis psychology, the introduction to BLACK HOLE CATALOG posited: “We can scream ‘fire!’ and call for help, but we can’t evacuate when the burning house is planet Earth. We’re stuck inside, even when we’re out striking.”

In the first quarter of 2020, the metaphor turned literal – amid COVID-19, to be politically and socially engaged was to #StayHome. Then, following the murder of George Floyd in May, we were called to go outside again – masked and gloved – to join protests on every continent against the old and most deadly pandemic of systemic racism. What the BLACK WHOLE CATALOG posits is ever clearer: familiar infrastructure and design, established jurisdiction and modes of consumption, do not provide solutions to what contaminates our inner selves or the architecture of our surroundings. Traditional images don’t adequately represent this world, the usual blueprints and drawings can’t outline it, and accepted aesthetic convention won’t enhance it.

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TUNE IN TONIGHT at 6pm CET to hear 032c executive editor Victoria Camblin and BLACK HOLE CATALOG author Nicholas Korody discuss the dossier in a lecture at Strelka Institute, Moscow.