COTTWEILER’s A/W 2014 collection shows the London-based brand edging closer to that impossible state of invisible fashion. Produced in either stark black or blinding white, the pieces effectively resist emission, a new kind of camouflage—anti-diffusion. Somewhere between a George Segal sculpture and Metal Gear Solid, it’s stealth in stark outlines, monochrome in HD, a framework for metamaterials.
The fabrics of the collection include Italian black memory taffeta used for the tracksuits and the shell layer of the padded jackets, which have a Thermore synthetic down insulator and satin lining. The overcoats and pants have a transparent-nylon membrane bonded with white mesh, creating good, lightweight insulation. For designers Ben Cottrell and Matt Dainty, the collection evokes “the bathroom, new-build, tiles, wet look sportswear fetish, and ceramic.”