From 1986 to 2005, Helmut Lang systematically deconstructed every assumption about clothing and the way it is worn and communicated. As he himself once said, “I kept all the traditions and shades that were good — and then re-thought it all.” The Austrian designer’s lists of “firsts” is so long it could double as conceptual art. Lang was one of the first designers to collaborate with visual artists. The first to show clothing for men and women in a single presentation. The first to pioneer backstage photography as we know it today with Juergen Teller. The first to move a fashion house across the Atlantic … and the list goes on. In a 48-page dossier, 032c Issue 31 explores THE HELMUT LANG LEGACY and how his abrupt exit from the industry in 2005 has been felt like phantom limb in the world of fashion. The comprehensive study features essays by Ingeborg Harms and Ulf Poschardt, a roundtable with Tim Blanks, Olivier Saillard, and Neville Wakefield, an interview with Lang himself, as well as rare material from the Helmut Lang archive.
Is Calabasas the new Abu Dhabi? Are the Californian suburbs the perfect place for new energy experiments in modern apparel? In an editorial shot by MERT & MARCUS and conceptualized by KANYE WEST, 032c travels to the Los Angeles exurb of Calabasas to bathe in the dust of the Wests’ under-construction home designed by Axel Vervoordt. The shoot features cameos by KIM KARDASHIAN WEST, KHLOÉ KARDASHIAN, AMINA BLUE, TRAVIS SCOTT, and others.
“At the time we started collaborating, everything in the world of art and fashion was polished. Everything was smooth, so we felt that Prada must be rough.” For the past decade, a windowless concrete hall at the PRADA headquarters has become an architectural gymnasium for REM KOOLHAAS and his firm OMA/AMO. Traveling from Rotterdam to Milan, architecture critic Jack Self examines the phenomenon of the firm’s catwalks for the Italian mega-house, exploring how Prada and OMA/AMO have teamed up to create the foundation of a new corporate aesthetic.
“You fuck. Or you don’t fuck. You can’t fuck a little.” In a 2012 reportage, writer Alexander Gorkow and photographer Andreas Mühe followed RAMMSTEIN on their tour of America. Since then, our private obsession with this document has become a matter of political urgency. What was once the anti-capitalist spectacle of an East German rock band in 2012, now reads like a seismograph for the right-wing political landscape of 2016. Here, we witness ideology’s opposite: raw energy unhinged from the burden of truth.
As our contemporary economy grows to demand CREATIVITY from all of its citizens, it has become increasingly unclear exactly what “creativity” is. In a double-feature illustrated by the Japanese photographer Kenta Cobayashi, Joachim Bessing speaks with Wolfgang Ullrich and Lars Vollmer on how society’s idea of a creative ethos has transformed within the digital revolution.
“People say this is vandalism.” 032c’s Bianca Heuser and photographer Nadine Fraczkowski take us inside ANNE IMHOF’s Angst, a grand and opaque artwork that has drifted across the world like a low-pressure system. Furnished with smoke machines, sleeping bags, razors, and bongs, the three-act immersive opera is a training camp for the denizens of hyper-capitalism.
Founded as sneaker blogs in 2005, HYPEBEAST and HIGHSNOBIETY have grown into large and disruptive forces in fashion. Simultaneously fuelling and gorging on a new generation’s appetite for content, they have set a rabid pace that has multinational brands following suit. Travelling up the feed and towards “the heart of content,” 032c’s Thom Bettridge and photographer Lukas Wassmann visit the companies’ respective HQs in Hong Kong and Berlin to suss out what this revolution spells for the landscape of media at large.
In the “SSENSE Files,” we present scenes of cross-platform madness from our work at ssense.com. The section features seven interviews with a range of cultural producers from rappers LIL YACHTY and SCHOOLBOY Q to jewelry designer GAIA REPOSSI, stylist ANDREW RICHARDSON, author NATASHA STAGG, artist SIMON DENNY, and artist/musician FATIMA AL QADIRI.
In our fashion section, WILLY VANDERPERRE and OLIVIER RIZZO shoot Clara 3000 in the editorial “Don’t Dream It’s Over.” GOSHA RUBCHINSKIY and 032c fashion director Mel Ottenberg team up for the ultimate study on Seinfeld-chic, while PIERRE DEBUSSCHERE and 032c fashion editor Marc Goehring vaporize Flemish baroque into a warped digital reality.
This issue, we also proudly introduce our “BERLIN REVIEW,” a section dedicated to our favorite printed matter of the season.
In his Parisian catacombs that smell of fuel and leather, Arthur Kar consults his clientele, who trust him for his discretion. The founder of L'Art de L'automobile told 032c about his love affair with automobiles and why he considers them to be "useable art." More
Starting in January 2016, 032c founder Joerg Koch took on the role of editor-in-chief at the global e-commerce platform SSENSE. In a special dossier for 032c Issue 31, we compiled some of our favorite interviews from back then, which feature creatives Lil Yachty, Natasha Stagg, Andrew Richardson, Schoolboy Q, Fatima Al Qadiri, Simon Denny, and Gaia Repossi. More
Given the right operating system, a swipe can delete an email, sign an e-vite, and turn down a sexual advance in one motion. In this mode, the techno-sensual zone of the touchscreen serves as the interface between reality and its digital representation. This is the surface that Cobayashi’s photography occupies, capturing a world that looks perpetually more editable and made of liquid crystal. More
When we imagine Utopia, it often looks like a playground. Yet play is not the end point of idealistic futurism, it is the push towards it. Experimentation is limited to what is physically tangible, whereas play allows things as banal as a tire-swing and monkey bars to become truly infinite in their potential. Playgrounds advocate… More
On the occasion of their 2012 Made in Germany tour, Alexander Gorkow and Andreas Mühe’s reportage of Rammstein in the United States was a study on the potential of “ANTIDEOLOGY.” Four years later, our private obsession with this document has transformed into a matter of political urgency. More
As art and entrepreneurship continue to coagulate into a single INDUSTRY, what exactly is creativity? Writer Joachim Bessing spoke with management consultant Lars Vollmer and art historian Wolfgang Ullrich, who shared business advice for the creative class and creative advice for the business class. More
Claus Leggewie is a German political scientist and author. His latest publication Anti-Europäer [“Anti-Europeans”] studies the increasingly fragile state of the European Union as indicated by Greece’s financial crisis and the Union’s approach to refugee issues. At a time when radicalized voices from all backgrounds question European values, Leggewie examines what unites extremists of different… More
The camp fantasy of the cowboy is so entangled with the reality of its actual occupation that the difference is hard to spot. Even real herders captured in harsh HD, like those of Finnish photographer Karoliina Paatos, reek of Billy the Kid. In her latest publication, American Cowboy, one expects the screen to drop with the turn of every page. More
Sunset Tower Hotel’s restaurant is like a hallucination. The rules of time do not measure here, or perhaps they do at a rate we do not yet recognize. These are the physics of a cliché come to life, Hollywood imagined the way it looked in your dreams. Dmitri Dmitrov, Hollywood's all-knowing maître d', is the enigmatic figure behind Sunset Tower's success. 032c's Fashion Director Mel Ottenberg … More
“I think I first knew of polar bears through Coca-Cola ads,” Chinese-Canadian actor, singer, and streetwear mogul EDISON CHEN tells 032c, “And I always thought they were – no pun intended – cool.” More
Edited fastidiously over a period of ten years, the catalogue raisonné of Francis Bacon – assembled by art historian Martin Harrison and published by HENI – is a strange and triumphant labor of love. It includes every work in the British artist’s oeuvre, of which are more than 100 never-before-seen paintings. More
For 032c’s Issue 31, Larissa Hofmann and 032c Fashion Editor Marc Goehring took on a journey to Brussels to create the 26-page story “MidiEvil Rave 2” with photographer Pierre Debusschere. Hofmann and Goehring, both from the South of Germany, share a true friendship in the often hurried world of fashion. More