Issue #31 — Winter 2016/2017HELMUT LANG
Issue # 31 — Winter 2016/2017
From 1986 to 2005, Helmut Lang systematically deconstructed every assumption about clothing and the way it is worn and communicated. As he himself once said, “I kept all the traditions and shades that were good — and then re-thought it all.” The Austrian designer’s lists of “firsts” is so long it could double as conceptual art. Lang was one of the first designers to collaborate with visual artists. The first to show clothing for men and women in a single presentation. The first to pioneer backstage photography as we know it today with Juergen Teller. The first to move a fashion house across the Atlantic … and the list goes on. In a 48-page dossier, 032c Issue 31 explores THE HELMUT LANG LEGACY and how his abrupt exit from the industry in 2005 has been felt like phantom limb in the world of fashion. The comprehensive study features essays by Ingeborg Harms and Ulf Poschardt, a roundtable with Tim Blanks, Olivier Saillard, and Neville Wakefield, an interview with Lang himself, as well as rare material from the Helmut Lang archive.
Is Calabasas the new Abu Dhabi? Are the Californian suburbs the perfect place for new energy experiments in modern apparel? In an editorial shot by MERT & MARCUS and conceptualized by KANYE WEST, 032c travels to the Los Angeles exurb of Calabasas to bathe in the dust of the Wests’ under-construction home designed by Axel Vervoordt. The shoot features cameos by KIM KARDASHIAN WEST, KHLOÉ KARDASHIAN, AMINA BLUE, TRAVIS SCOTT, and others.
“At the time we started collaborating, everything in the world of art and fashion was polished. Everything was smooth, so we felt that Prada must be rough.” For the past decade, a windowless concrete hall at the PRADA headquarters has become an architectural gymnasium for REM KOOLHAAS and his firm OMA/AMO. Traveling from Rotterdam to Milan, architecture critic Jack Self examines the phenomenon of the firm’s catwalks for the Italian mega-house, exploring how Prada and OMA/AMO have teamed up to create the foundation of a new corporate aesthetic.
“You fuck. Or you don’t fuck. You can’t fuck a little.” In a 2012 reportage, writer Alexander Gorkow and photographer Andreas Mühe followed RAMMSTEIN on their tour of America. Since then, our private obsession with this document has become a matter of political urgency. What was once the anti-capitalist spectacle of an East German rock band in 2012, now reads like a seismograph for the right-wing political landscape of 2016. Here, we witness ideology’s opposite: raw energy unhinged from the burden of truth.
As our contemporary economy grows to demand CREATIVITY from all of its citizens, it has become increasingly unclear exactly what “creativity” is. In a double-feature illustrated by the Japanese photographer Kenta Cobayashi, Joachim Bessing speaks with Wolfgang Ullrich and Lars Vollmer on how society’s idea of a creative ethos has transformed within the digital revolution.
“People say this is vandalism.” 032c’s Bianca Heuser and photographer Nadine Fraczkowski take us inside ANNE IMHOF’s Angst, a grand and opaque artwork that has drifted across the world like a low-pressure system. Furnished with smoke machines, sleeping bags, razors, and bongs, the three-act immersive opera is a training camp for the denizens of hyper-capitalism.
Founded as sneaker blogs in 2005, HYPEBEAST and HIGHSNOBIETY have grown into large and disruptive forces in fashion. Simultaneously fuelling and gorging on a new generation’s appetite for content, they have set a rabid pace that has multinational brands following suit. Travelling up the feed and towards “the heart of content,” 032c’s Thom Bettridge and photographer Lukas Wassmann visit the companies’ respective HQs in Hong Kong and Berlin to suss out what this revolution spells for the landscape of media at large.
In the “SSENSE Files,” we present scenes of cross-platform madness from our work at ssense.com. The section features seven interviews with a range of cultural producers from rappers LIL YACHTY and SCHOOLBOY Q to jewelry designer GAIA REPOSSI, stylist ANDREW RICHARDSON, author NATASHA STAGG, artist SIMON DENNY, and artist/musician FATIMA AL QADIRI.
In our fashion section, WILLY VANDERPERRE and OLIVIER RIZZO shoot Clara 3000 in the editorial “Don’t Dream It’s Over.” GOSHA RUBCHINSKIY and 032c fashion director Mel Ottenberg team up for the ultimate study on Seinfeld-chic, while PIERRE DEBUSSCHERE and 032c fashion editor Marc Goehring vaporize Flemish baroque into a warped digital reality.
This issue, we also proudly introduce our “BERLIN REVIEW,” a section dedicated to our favorite printed matter of the season.
All this and more on 296 pages!
In celebration of its 30th issue, 032c and artist-director RALF SCHMERBERG teamed up to create “An Innocent Mind Has No Fear,” a proposal for the ultimate Berlin film with a libretto by writer HELENE HEGEMANN. It is a manifesto about life in the post-contemporary era, where cultural promiscuity has dissolved into a condition of spiritual bankruptcy. Heat and compression have melted the meaning from our past algorithms, while aimless citizens wander in search of a new morality. The bandwidth of pleasure-pain has become endless.
Welcome to 032c Issue XXX!
Artist STERLING RUBY shares his archive of workwear, a collection of clothing that appears as next century’s post-apocalyptic craft. Developed initially as a uniform for his Los Angeles studio, the garments are part of a larger, self-cannibalizing material practice that includes his sculptures and paintings.
Austerity bully, refugee haven, neither, or both? — In light of Germany’s newfound powerful and complex role on the world stage, journalist Joachim Bessing and sociologist Heinz Bude seek to untangle the psyche of a country through its mysterious figurehead leader, ANGELA MERKEL.
In the wake of Hood By Air’s sexually charged takeover of the shop windows at Barneys New York, creative directors SHAYNE OLIVER (HBA), DENNIS FREEDMAN (Barneys), and BABAK RADBOY (Telfar) discuss public transportation, dermatology, and the legacy of Helmut Lang over martini glasses filled with ceviche. Meanwhile, writer HANNAH BLACK unpacks the significance of Hood By Air’s silicone replicas of male models into a pyramid of fashion-commodity-death.
THE LOTTA-DELPHINE COMPLEX — At a time when industry wisdom is crowd-sourced and the consumer holds more power than ever before, 032c’s Jina Khayyer speaks to LVMH executive DELPHINE ARNAULT and mega-stylist LOTTA VOLKOVA, two equal yet opposite centers of gravity in the contemporary fashion landscape.
In tandem with his friends Jeff Koons, Jeffrey Deitch, and Maurizio Cattelan, the Cypriot industrialist and art collector DAKIS JOANNOU has turned an “unreasonable love for art” into a Zeitgeist-shaping pile of acquisitions. 032c’s Thom Bettridge travels to Greece at the apex of the financial crisis to uncover the mysteries behind the tinted windows of Joannou’s pop art battleship, Guilty.
“People, for me, are function. Is that awful?” — After being awarded Britain’s best mens- and womenswear designer in the same year, J.W. ANDERSON receives a visit from architect Jack Self, who administers a personality test at the designer’s home in London The verdict: Anderson is an accomplished devil’s advocate and a hyper-capitalist par excellence. Anderson explains why he prefers interviews to psychotherapy, and how the fashion industry is an autobahn: You can go as fast as you like, as long as you don’t take your hands off the wheel.
“It seems like the only way out is to speed up what is already at work”— Anthropologist JASON PINE shares his field research into homemade meth-cooking in rural Missouri and explains how a backwater drug epidemic is in fact the chemical embodiment of mainstream capitalism.
After bringing art criticism to the masses with Ways of Seeing, author and artist JOHN BERGER gave half of his 1972 Booker Prize money to the Black Panthers and used the other half to relocate to a village in the French Alps. Writer Niklas Maak brings us a portrait of Berger’s life as a rural futurist on the occasion of The Seasons in Quincy, a film initiated by his longtime friend Tilda Swinton.
COLLIER SCHORR and LOTTA VOLKOVA team up for an editorial feature, while enigmatic fashion designer CHRISTOPHE DECARNIN makes his debut as a fashion photographer in a celebration of the American West.
Juergen Teller makes peace with a soccer rival, a Renaissance accountant predicts the future of menswear, and the anti-aging industry performs a Swiss Air First Class takeover of the Bauhaus tradition — all this and more in SELECT, a 32-page bonanza of our favorite products of the season.
032c Issue 30 is available now, with a choice of two covers: COLLIER SCHORR shooting Gosha Rubchinskiy and Balanciaga on the left, and RALF SCHMERBERG shooting Gucci on the right.
Federally approved in the United States in 1987, Prozac calmed the raw nerves of the 1980s and gave the 1990s a convivial peacefulness, an easy assuredness against panic. Something new, uncertain, and very magical was also afoot for publishing. The digital revolution that erupted in the middle of the decade gave everyone with an Internet connection the ability to broadcast and publish. Without exaggeration, the interiors quarterly NEST (founded in 1997) represents a final claim to the autonomous potential of the American print periodical. “Before Prozac, I was afraid and I did nothing. I watched soap operas all day,” says JOSEPH HOLTZMAN, the agoraphobic decorator and amateur genius who published Nest from the confines his Upper East Side apartment. Along with a rotating masthead that included aristocrats, musicians, novelists, and pornstars, Holtzman created a magazine that freely mixed fantasy and luxury with neuroses and death, all scrambling toward the question of how we define (and are defined by) the rooms we live in. 032c celebrates Joseph Holzman’s Nest, or how Prozac spawned the greatest interiors magazine ever.
As encoded in its unironically straightforward name, VETEMENTS was founded in a Paris living room with a simple mission: to bring the focus back to clothes. Suleman Anaya speaks with Vetements’s DEMNA GVASALIA on the eve of his appointment as artistic director of BALENCIAGA.
“Old people can keep making wars for money, but we’ll grow up and change the world” — For this cover story, designer and photographer GOSHA RUBCHINSKIY takes us inside his vertically integrated youth universe with an interview and a fashion excursion to a metal concert with LOTTA VOKOVA.
What is RADICAL? — As the booms and busts of our convergence culture accelerate to the point of incomprehension, we sometimes stop to wonder: Is radical here to save us or destroy us? In search of the radical, we contacted a group of friends, collaborators, and people we admire to ask them a simple question: “What is the most radical thing you’ve encountered in the last six months?”
Bitcoins, anyone? Hannes Grasseger travels to RICHARD BRANSON’s Blockchain Summit on Necker Island—where Silicon Valley collides with Springbreakers—and discovers how the global economy is being overturned by men in flip flops.
Love. Fear. And the Network.—The ever-prolific ZYGMUNT BAUMAN is neither pessimistic nor optimistic about the state of the contemporary world’s affairs, “There is a third category in which I count myself: the one of hope.” Peter Haffner speaks with the 89-year-old sociologist, who holds a mirror up to our generation.
“We are preparing to exist in a purely virtual world.” — Post-Human by way of Coca-Cola Light and café americanos, curator SUSANNE PFEFFER can often be found on the Deutsche Bahn ICE, the high-speed railway system she uses to download herself for openings and studio visits across Germany. Since taking over Kassel’s Fridericianum in 2013, she has turned Europe’s oldest museum (founded in 1779) into the epicenter for art’s post-human turn.
Part anarchist geography, part slacker social science, Guy Debord’s “Théorie de la Dérive” advocates the practice of aimless wandering through the city streets. For “Bench Theory,” THOMAS JEPPE and MANUEL BÜRGER have created a find-all-replace rendition of Debord’s text, as a way of generating social micro-climates where human interaction can occur without the assistance of 3G geolocation.
“Window-shopping is free!” — Jina Khayyer speaks with FAYE McLEOD, Louis Vuitton’s visual creative director and the mastermind behind the world’s most imaginative window displays.
PIERRE DESBUSSCHERE and MEL OTTENBERG bring us a photoshopped desire and ultra-modernism of biblical proportions in their fashion story ISAIAH 13:13.
SEAN + SENG and MIKE GUINNESS give us a seductive tour of THE ISLE OF SKYE, aided by a health dose of moon-gazing and dirty day dreams.
Kanye’s neo-nihilism, pillow-talk between architects, rabid dobermans, and more in SELECT, a review of our favorite products of the season.
As the velocity and size of our data swell to inhuman proportions, it has become increasingly unrealistic to know and increasingly essential to believe. The WHAT WE BELIEVE cover dossier is a fluid guide to doing business in The Age of Uncertainty. It is provocative of the present-tense tensions that contribute to the new, embracing doubt as a starting point towards decision-making.
“If you can’t touch it, it’s not real.” — Following her ascension as a new type of diva, FKA TWIGS dresses up as Willi Ninja for a cover shoot with JUERGEN TELLER. She speaks with HANS ULRICH OBRIST about embracing anxiety and how voguing helped her get in touch with her feminine side.
Master dancer STEPHEN GALLOWAY appears alongside ANJA RUBIK for a surreal cover shoot by INEZ & VINOODH. After a legendary run as the principle dancer for Ballet Frankfurt, Galloway brought his knowledge and talent to the world of fashion, inventing the now-growing profession of creative movement director. Dubbed “The Model Whisperer” by the Wall Street Journal, Galloway’s innate physically allows him to connect and communicate with subjects in a way that even the best photographer would find difficult to achieve.
Having invented an app that disrupts every creative industry, Instagram co-founder MIKE KRIEGER has become an unlikely prime-mover in fashion and art. He explains to HANS ULRICH OBRIST that he envisions Instgram as “version 0.1 of the teleporter,” also discussing his growing art collection and why selfie sticks should not be allowed in museums.
“I like to take these solutions to problems and let that become their aesthetic.” Streetwear guru GARY WARNETT unpacks how NIKE and Berlin-based designer ERROLSON HUGH turned Hip Hop’s favorite outdoor label into the future of urban tech wear, heralding the re-launch of ACG.
Artist and former Hollywood director MARCO BRAMBILLA has developed a polished form of maximalism that has become the envy of marketing departments. Bouncing between gallery exhibitions, fashion films, and public installations, Brambilla describes the tightrope walk of operating in the new context of brand patronage.
“We’re paranoid and we’re cousins.” — Tate Modern director CHRIS DERCON speaks with artist duo OLIVER CHANARIN and ADAM BROOMBERG about the sprawling and, and, and, and logic of their practice.
NIKLAS MAAK takes us on a tour of the ANTI-VILLA, a former GDR underwear factory that architect ARNO BRANDLHUBER has transformed into a thinking model for 21st Century living.
“People protect what they love, and love what they know.” As the world’s oceanic landscape faces cataclysmic changes over the next fifty years, ALEXANDRA COUSTEAU is using the infrastructures of social media and big data to call forth a new era of environmental activism.
Part cold empiricist, part slapstick comedian, Norweigan artist YNGVE HOLEN creates works that map the anatomy of a new human-machine eco-system. He speaks with THOM BETTRIDGE about about supermarket poultry, airborne claustrophobia, and plastic surgery.
Fashion stories by OLA RINDL, RICHARD BURBRIDGE, and PIERRE DEBUSSCHERE. As well as a review of our favorite products of the season, from the Audi RS7 auto-piloted car to the Pradasphere catalogue. All this and more on 272 pages.
As network technology continues to pour itself into every facet of existence, we now find ourselves in a new state of adolescence, a landscape filled with grey areas and black holes—stretching, contracting, and continually shapeshifting. This issue takes a look at those who have made themselves at home in this protean terrain, embracing the ambiguity and uni-sexuality of the unknown.
“The past is not romantic to me. The future is romantic to me,” says RAF SIMONS, a designer whose menswear label has become an oracle of its own pre-Internet notion of beauty and freedom. With a practice rooted in the site specificity of IRL subculture and the iconoclasm of the 20th century avant-garde, Raf Simons has turned the charged ambivalence of youth into a comprehensive design methodology. Our cover dossier 1995-2015: A Raf Simons Retrospective celebrates the 20th anniversary of the label with an investigation into the underpinnings a menswear label that seems to exist in a perpetual state of youthful becoming. Alongside an extensive interview with the designer himself, PIERRE ALEXANDRE DE LOOZ’s profile on Raf Simons charts the ascension of the enigmatic figure behind the label. Meanwhile photographer WILLY VANDERPERRE and stylist OLIVIER RIZZO take us deep inside the Raf Simons archive for a study of the archetypes that have spanned across all 40 of Simons’ collections.
In a context where information flows freely across platforms, RICHARD TURLEY has operated through his own brand of “lazy modernism”. Widely known through his work at Bloomberg BusinessWeek as a master of the 21st century magazine cover, the graphic designer has moved on to the world of television, where he plans to revive the anarchy that once defined MTV in a much-changed media landscape.
What does the World Wide Web’s compression geo-physical boundaries entail for the future of architecture? 032c’s Carson Chan speaks with ANDREAS ANGELIDAKIS, an architect who has taken the Greece’s economic downturn as grounds to create buildings that live online as networked environments. Operating on the opposite end of the economic spectrum, the Beijing-based architecture firm BAM navigates the dizzying pace of Chinese real estate development by creating spaces that appear as a surreal Tumblr of forms and images.
“From a global point of view, the idea of economic growth is a failed, worn-out Western fetish.” As tensions between the East and West escalate with the rise of ISIS, Indian novelist PANKAJ MISHRA reflects on the false promises of the Enlightenment.
“Things are held together with all this blurry material, which we cannot see or measure. That’s interesting for me, how I approach these empty, in-between spaces. Without them, there would be nothing to connect it all together.” Georgian-born artist ANDRO WEKUA’s sculptures operate within the space of the unknowable. Operating through an amalgamation of memories, dreams, and databases, they attempt to chart the black holes that exist within the network.
At a time when Y2K-era communication had forged a new type of mega-celebrity, Swiss journalist TOM KUMMER shocked the German-speaking world when it was discovered that his Hollywood interviews were an elaborate hoax. The interviews, which have Courtney Love speculating on hyperreality and Pamela Anderson discussing William Gibon’s Neuromancer, have been translated into English for the first time by Pablo Larios.
Poet, conceptual artist, and digital pioneer KENNETH GOLDSMITH takes us on a tour through his library of books and records.
Fashion stories by COLLIER SCHORR, DANKO and ANA STEINER, KATJA RAHWLES, ALASDAIR MCLELLAN, BENJAMIN BRUNO, and MEL OTTENBERG
In addition, this issue’s SELECT features an original commission by artist Cali Thornhill DeWitt, an interview with APC founder Jean Touitou, the rebirth of the Ferrari F-1 Modulo concept car, a look at the lifetime of Ettore Sottsass, Gosha Rubchinskiy’s tour through Crimean skateboard culture, and much much more.
Today’s digital media landscape has made it more challenging—and more important—to communicate consistent ideas and values, sustaining a message that’s hopping from stores to Instagram feeds, and from fashion shows to published reviews. If it’s ever out of sync, the sophisticated audience you’ve built will take note, and the brand’s promise will evaporate. This challenge is exciting though: it reflects and accelerates the closing of the gap between the creative and the business sides of fashion, which would have been unthinkable 20 years ago.
It’s time to explore the notion of creative leadership. 032c commissioned K-HOLE—a maverick crew of artists disguising themselves as a trend consultancy—to shine a light on recent developments in business that will undoubtedly cross into all industries. Edited and designed in New York, the dossier includes an essay and interviews with Floriane de Saint Pierre, Venkatesh Rao, Eric Wahlforss, and Gildo Zegna.
Photographer MARIO SORRENTI’s 28-page story “Queen Frostine” is pure myth.
“It would be wrong to reduce HOOD BY AIR to an oversize T-shirt,” explains Vogue editor Mark Holgate about the NYC-based label run by designer Shayne Oliver. “It is the expression of a generation that sees fashion as part of a broader creative endeavour—whether it’s clothes, a club night, music, photography, whatever. HBA comes fully formed in a way that suggests a new model.” In 032c’s interview with Oliver, Emily Segal discovers what makes HBA a truly contemporary luxury brand—one that insists on the sincerity of fashion itself.
“Talking about the present is talking about something so strange that you’re already implying the future,” says Dutch graphic design studio METAHAVEN. Commenting on its work in a post-Snowden era, and in anticipation of the forthcoming book Black Transparency, Metahaven discusses with Robert Wiesenberger the stakes for design and life at a moment when reality reads increasingly like science fiction.
When NATALIE MASSENET launched the online shopping behemoth Net-a-Porter at the very end of the 20th century, the dot-com bubble had just burst. With a completely untested business model, she grew the company into a multibillion-dollar business. “She had so many skeptics, but she won. She won big-time,” says Diane von Furstenberg. Fifteen years later, Massenet has created Porter magazine, the first 100-percent shoppable print publication that’s been called the biggest launch in British fashion publishing for years, and it may well represent a new synthesis of retail and media. Jina Khayyer conducts a threefold examination of one of today’s most interesting entrepreneurs.
“I think up fucked-up shit in the morning, and sell it in the afternoon,” says JOHN WATERS. In anticipation of his upcoming travelogue, Carsick, the artist, filmmaker, writer, and show-biz master tells Peter Richter about good bad taste and how the bizarre side of human nature will continue to thrive.
And so much more on 272 pages…
Creative Leadership Dossier by K-HOLE
Kevin Amato, Andrew Ayers, Camille Bidault Waddington, Benjamin Bruno, Max Farago, David Fischer, Zoe Ghertner, Alasdair McLellan, Jamie Morgan, David Ostrowski, Niki Pauls, Peter Richter, Sean + Seng, Heji Shin, Mario Sorrenti, Juergen Teller, Cornelius Tittel, Erik Torstensson, Jahleel Weaver, Robert Wiesenberger
272 pages, content non-stop
Guest-edited by Cornelius Tittel of Die Welt, our cover dossier on PICASSO AND THE GERMANS IN 1913 takes us back to a European society on the verge of catastrophic change. It was the ground zero of modernism, and while Picasso was denounced as the “Cubist Bluff,” a small yet significant group of German-Jewish dealers embraced the painter who would go on to become the greatest artist of the century.
RIHANNA is the unfiltered and fiercely productive icon that every era needs and obsesses about. 032c invited Dutch photography duo Inez & Vinoodh to portray the pop star in a studio on Broome Street in Lower Manhattan for a 22-page fashion story.
A favorite among the avant-garde of the 1930s, Italian fashion designer Elsa SCHIAPARELLI closed her legendary house in 1954. This year Christian Lacroix was invited to design an haute couture collection to officially reinaugurate the label. 032c commissioned Juergen Teller and Kristen McMenamy to capture his tribute to Schiaparelli on a Greek island in the Aegean Sea.
How does NIKE avoid being a victim of its own success? The answer is HTM, a three-person design collaboration between CEO Mark Parker, designer Tinker Hatfield, and creative consultant Hiroshi Fujiwara. In “Nike: The Spirit Machine,” Jonathan Olivares and Gary Warnett tell the story of this core R&D team at the heart of the multibillion-dollar company.
“TOMI UNGERER is the most famous children’s book author you’ve never heard of,” Phaidon Press stated on the occasion of republishing the Alsatian artist’s illustrated books from the 1950s–70s. Ungerer, who has made more than 150 books that range from children’s literature to erotica, has juxtaposed works from the past with new collages for 032c in a 22-page story.
The work of artist CYPRIEN GAILLARD navigates between architecture and nature, geography and psychological states. For 032c, Gaillard has created a sculpture edition. Modeled from a recent series of collages of images from National Geographic, it’s a tiny monument to the historic publication, which turns 125 this year.
Brian Boylan @ Wolff Olins by Thomas Demand & Robi Rodriguez, Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele by Jeremy Lewis & Tim Walker, DIS, Matthew Evans, Hans Hollein by Robert Wiesenberger, Kacper Kasprzyk & Mel Ottenberg w/ Kati Nescher, Jeremy Liebman, Hans-Joachim Müller, Sir John Richardson by Cornelius Tittel & Jason Schmidt, Dieter Roelstraete, Michel Serres by Hans Ulrich Obrist & Manuel Cohen, Slavs & Tatars, Danko & Ana Steiner w/ Hilary Rhoda, Thomas Wagner
“I may be putting myself in danger, but that’s what I want today,” says NICOLAS GHESQUIÈRE, who shared the story of his creative life with 032c in our 38 page dossier that was two years in the making, recruiting the likes of long-time collaborators like CHARLOTTE GAINSBOURG, MARIE-AMÉLIE SAUVÉ, and DOMINIQUE GONZALEZ-FOERSTER, with KARIM SADLI behind the lens;
Hollywood super-actor CATE BLANCHETT poses in bondage amidst the contemporary art collection housed at Berlin’s Boros Bunker, instigated by SEAN + SENG and MEL OTTENBERG; artists R.B. KITAJ and DAVID HOCKNEY review their lifelong friendship;
übermodel KARLIE KLOSS embodies the future of fashion and technology; the young German writer HELENE HEGEMANN hangs out in hysterialand;
femme fatal ARIZONA MUSE models new coinages by DOUGLAS COUPLAND for photographer JAMIE MORGAN; West Berlin DJs WESTBAM and FETISCH chronicle 30 years of hazy nightlife memories from the German capital; actress ISABEL LUCAS sunbathes for THEO WENNER in California; ZOË GHERTNER shadow-plays with Malgosia Bela; is BARNEYS NEW YORK Creative Director DENNIS FREEDMAN a luxury retail oracle? JUERGEN TELLER went to a Greek taverna to find out; WERNER HERZOG reveals the world to us through his decades-old archive, distilled in our 22-page image essay;
032c’s latest SELECT presents the best of this season’s books, products, and ideas; we continue to tell readers WHAT WE BELIEVE, and more on 262 pages …
Contributors: Suleman Anaya, Ondine Azoulay, Maxime Ballesteros, Jodie Barnes, Shumon Basar, Beat Bolliger, Nathalie Canguilhem, Douglas Coupland, Mara Delius, Pierre-Alexandre De Looz, Dan Duray, Matthew Evans, Zoë Ghertner, Eckhart Gillen, Dominique Gonzalez-Foerster, Ulrich Gutmair, Benjamin Lennox, Niklas Maak, Patrick Mackie, Jamie Morgan, Mel Ottenberg, Niki Pauls, Ben Perdue, Cher Potter, Axel Rühle, Karim Sadli, Marie-Amélie Sauvé, Sean and Seng, Heji Shin, Juergen Teller, Lukas Wassmann, Theo Wenner
REM KOOLHAAS finally turns his attention from the metropolis to the COUNTRYSIDE, “an arena for genetic experimentation, industrialized nostalgia, new patterns of seasonal migration, digital informers, flex farming, and species homogenization” in this issue’s COVER DOSSIER.
Elsewhere SEAN + SENG sub-sahara JOAN SMALLS; LACATON VASSAL ethicize building; HEDI SLIMANE photographs rags to riches sculptor THOMAS HOUSEAGO; octogenarian NEW YORK REVIEW OF BOOKS publisher ROBERT SILVERS invigorates an industry while octogenarian INGE FELTRINELLI animates encounters with ERNEST HEMINGWAY, AXEL F. SPRINGER, and her leftist terrorist husband.
WOLFGANG TILLMANS hangs with PET SHOP BOYS’ Neil Tennant; ROE ETHRIDGE turns a rose-colored lens towards DE KOONING’s Long Island estate; LYDIA DAVIS tells us stories; LARA STONE gets BALMAIN’ed in leather; CORY ARCANGEL and PAUL CHAN explore new digital frontiers; TOPHEADZ glides over the surface of the Earth; ALASDAIR MCLELLAN does the VICTORIA & ALBERT;
032c’s latest SELECT presents the best of this season’s books, products, and ideas; we continue to tell readers WHAT WE BELIEVE, and so much more on 256 pages …
Contributors: Jodie Barnes, Julian Baumann, Kate Bellm, Beat Bolliger, Clang, Theo Cote, Lea Crespi, Frédéric Druot, Roe Ethridge, Peter Haffner, Tony Irvine, Rem Koolhaas / AMO (Janna Bystrykh, Stephan Petermann, James Westcott), Benjamin Lennox, Jonas Lindström, Joe McKenna, Alasdair McLellan, Sven Michaelsen, Michael Miller, Conroy Nachtigall, Mel Ottenberg, Max Pearmain, Ben Perdue, Cher Potter, Philippe Ruault, Karim Sadli, Sean and Seng, Emily Segal, Hedi Slimane, Juergen Teller, Cornelius Tittel
Introducing THE ROYAL TENENBAUMS of architecture and design: “Serge often roused himself from a serious conversation with, ‘Chris, let’s go get a sandwich.’ This was in fact a rallying cry for martinis,” recalls CHRISTOPHER ALEXANDER of his mentor SERGE CHERMAYEFF, the charismatic Russian tango-champion-turned-design-legend who began the creative dynasty featured in this issue’s 32-page cover dossier.
Meet IVAN CHERMAYEFF, the original Mad Man, PETER CHERMAYEFF, aquatic architect, and Berlin’s newest spark plug, SAM CHERMAYEFF, with essays, interviews and memories by CARSON CHAN, THOMAS DEMAND, MICHAEL ROCK, and HANS ULRICH OBRIST.
Elsewhere JUERGEN TELLER and IRINA KULIKOVA maraud in SYLVIE AUVRAY’s masks; CORNELIUS TITTEL resurrects the sex and successes of JIRI GEORG DOKOUPIL; New York’s preeminent avant-garde skate shop still reigns SUPREME (while remaining a mysterious church of cool); the 20th century’s best-dressed journalist, Hamburg media myth FRITZ J. RADDATZ gets canonized; CALVIN KLEIN… needs no superlatives, thanks especially to Men’s Creative Director ITALO ZUCCHELLI; man about town CLEMENS WEISSHAAR makes seven pronouncements on design, simulation and competition; ANA and DANKO STEINER pack some heat;
032c’s latest SELECT presents the best of this season’s books, products, and ideas; a special front section finally tells readers WHAT WE BELIEVE, and so much more on 260 pages …
Contributors: Christopher Alexander, Arno Brandlhuber, Thomas Demand, Georg Diez, Lukas Gansterer, Alex Hawgood, Oliver Helbig, Ben Perdue, Cher Potter, Michael Rock, Karim Sadli, Sean and Seng, Ana Steiner, Danko Steiner, Juergen Teller, Cornelius Tittel, Clemens Weisshaar, Italo Zucchelli
“I got my first tat in 1978. None of you were even born yet. You really missed out.” – NAN GOLDIN in a letter to SCOTT CAMPBELL, the young and famous tattoo artist featured in this issue’s 40-page cover dossier, complete with poetry from French modernist FRANCIS PICABIA and a little-known short story by SYLVIA PLATH.
Elsewhere AZZEDINE ALAÏA bares his love for animals and women; English artist HELEN MARTEN builds a page-specific installation; dream boys OLAFUR ELIASSON and KEVIN KELLY get techno-Utopian; AL-JAZEERA proves it’s the media outlet of the new millennium; LUCAS OSSENDRIJVER takes LANVIN to the frontiers of men’s wear design; FERNANDO ROMERO builds an art museum in Mexico for the world’s richest man;
DANKO and ANA STEINER go downtown with LEELEE SOBIESKI and Salem’s JOHN HOLLAND; Munich magazine magnate Dr. HUBERT BURDA talks tabloids and media theory while the king of arts publishing WALTHER KÖNIG takes us back to the first German art world boom; JUERGEN TELLER shoots KRISTEN McMENAMY in CARLO MOLLINO’s Turin estate (44 pages), testing the Mollino mantra, “Everything is permissible as long as it is fantastic”; New York’s DIS magazine invades our Global Briefings section;
032c’s latest SELECT presents the best of this season’s books, products, and ideas; and so much more on 276 pages …
“Rei, I have a wish list for you” – JOHN WATERS on Comme des Garçons, and everything else you never thought you wanted to know about designer REI KAWAKUBO in our 40-page dossier.
ARC’TERYX takes menswear to new heights of performance with its new line, Veilance; CLAUDE PARENT is rediscovered as Paris’ last supermodernist; HEDI SLIMANE does STERLING RUBY in downtown L.A.; REM KOOLHAAS discusses Moscow’s new Strelka Institute, FRANCESCO VEZZOLI gives us a look into Milan’s infamous club, Plastic, and DAVID SIMON, creator of HBO’s The Wire, talks anger and the American city in our segment on today’s unexpected places of discourse;
JOHANNESBURG provides a case study in African modernity; BJARKE INGELS is optimistic about the future thanks to artificial intelligence guru RAY KURZWEIL; TUNG WALSH captures WEISSHAAR and KRAM’s mechanical leviathan; DANKO and ANA STEINER bring on Hannelore, Tre, Sunnika, and cover-girl LAUREN SANTO DOMINGO to conclude their Manhattan trilogy;
032c’s latest SELECT presents the best of this season’s books, products, and ideas; and so much more on 264 pages …
Contributors: Hilton Als, Imran Amed, Carlo Antonelli, Shumon Basar, Tim Blanks, Lee Carter, Aric Chen, Chris Dercon, Georg Diez, Cyril Duval, Albrecht Fuchs, Vicente Gutierrez, Joerg Haentzschel, Oliver Helbig, Cathy Horyn, Charlie Koolhaas, Niklas Maak, Mert & Marcus, Steven Meisel, Steven Pulimood, Gregor Quack, Kari Rittenbach, Christopher Roth, Alex Rühle, Juergen Teller, Heji Shin, Hedi Slimane, Ana Steiner, Danko Steiner, Francesco Vezzoli, Tung Walsh, John Waters
“I have become a mere recording angel,” states WILLIAM T. VOLLMANN in this issue’s 40-page dossier on the American author’s pursuit to understand the tyrannical world.
Meanwhile, PIERRE ALEXANDER DE LOOZ activates the secret Vogue history of CY TWOMBLY photographed by HORST P. HORST; publisher LORD GEORGE WEIDENFELD divulges the historical foundation of the global networking imperative in an interview with HANS ULRICH OBRIST; architect ARNO BRANDLHUBER asks how we can build architecture in the form of a discussion; artist MATTHEW BARNEY previews the Detroit chapter of his opera Ancient Evenings; designer RICK OWENS talks with CARSON CHAN about the discrete, the lurid, and the total aesthetic; director PAUL SCHRADER and king of disco GIORGIO MORODER crystallize 30 years of AMERICAN GIGOLO; artist ANDRO WEKUA stares us down with a 21st-century scenography;
ALASDAIR MCLELLAN showcases LARA, DIANA, COCO, SIGRID, CAMERON, ISABELI, LILY, AGYNESS, and DREE; DANIEL SANNWALD captures a postdigital surrealism in “Aftershock Pompeii”; DANKO STEINER stages a transatlantic cabaret with ANJA, CARMEN, HANNELORE, MISSY, NATASA, and PATRICIA; art critic NIKLAS MAAK speculates on how our future could live in architecture firm SANAA’s ROLEX LEARNING CENTER; designer HIROKI NAKAMURA of VISVIM emanates product fundamentalism;
the new 032c SELECT presents the best of this season’s books, products, and ideas; and so much more on 284 pages …
Contributors: Matthew Barney, Chris Dercon, Georg Diez, Vicente Gutierrez, Oliver Helbig, Horst P. Horst, Young Kim, Niklas Maak, Sebastian Mayer, Alasdair McLellan, Rick Owens, Alexander Provan, Steve Pulimood, Zac Rose, Christopher Roth, Daniel Sannwald, Slavs & Tatars, Ana Steiner, Danko Steiner, Fed Tan, William T. Vollmann, Tung Walsh, Andro Wekua, Mei-lun Xue
“Our knowledge of images is my material,” says artist THOMAS DEMAND in part of our 40-page Demand Dossier featuring interviews with filmmaker TODD SOLONDZ, architect ADAM CARUSO, museum director UDO KITTELMANN, and more;
meanwhile Nike CEO MARK PARKER discusses creativity, commerce, and charity; Design Director at BMW ADRIAN VAN HOOYDONK tells KONSTANTIN GRCIC about the future of the driving experience; design duo BLESS taps the Holy Grail of where fashion meets art; the MONTANA CLUB seduces Paris nightlife all over again; artist LUCAS SAMARAS pulls back the curtain on his prophetic creative vision;
artist collective SLAVS & TATARS conjures ghosts of COMMUNISM past the 20th anniversary of its fall; music critic SIMON REYNOLDS on the late J.G. BALLARD’s legacy; photographer ALASDAIR MCLELLAN captures supermodel TRISH GOFF in a Big Sur splash; DANKO STEINER sets a new New York standard with CHLOË, MISSY, LIZZI, and NATASA in “Alphabet City”;
the 032c SELECT premieres with 30-plus pages of the best in this season’s books, products, and ideas; and so much more on 274 pages …
Contributors: Daniel Birnbaum, Miriam Böhm, Christopher Bollen, Adam Broomberg, Oliver Chanarin, Nick Currie, Lana Daher, Meredith Danluck, Shane Deegan, Anna Dyulgerova, Konstantin Grcic, Oliver Helbig, Jan How, Jina Khayyer, Christy Lang, Anna Laub, Alasdair McLellan, Eva Munz, Alex Needham, Max Pearmain, Zac Rose, Simon Sellars, Heji Shin, Todd Solondz, Ana Steiner, Danko Steiner, Patrick Waugh, Brady Welch, Brigitte Werneberg, Mei-lun Xue, Olivier Zahm
“All we ever wanted was everything,” MIKE MILLS reveals in our 40-page cover special on ways of getting through the recession / depression.
Meanwhile, RONNIE COOKE NEWHOUSE narrates a day in the life of her best friend PHARRELL WILLIAMS, photographed by MAX FARAGO; publisher GERHARD STEIDL races jet lag across the Atlantic from Karl Lagerfeld’s haute couture show in Paris to Robert Frank’s Canadian solitude; distinguished historian ERIC HOBSBAWM discusses his views on the future of globalization with HANS ULRICH OBRIST; artist collective SLAVS & TATARS revisits the Islamic Revolution of 1979 in Tehran with the first installment of its project 79/89/09 for 032c; Belgian art collector and interior decorator AXEL VERVOORDT makes all art contemporary;
AGYNESS DEYN nude story by ALASDAIR MCLELLAN; gallerist MAUREEN PALEY bares her perseverance: “It’s something where you’ve been given a path that you must follow, where you don’t know what else you would do. Once you see this, many things appear that indicate the way forward for you”; curator CHRIS DERCON on artist ANISH KAPOOR’s pornography; historian KARL SCHLÖGEL trumps the heroic image of 1989;
the BERLIN REVIEW reflects on nine events, projects, and people from the last six months in Berlin; and so much more on 256 pages …
Contributors: Jodie Barnes, Joachim Bessing, Anne Christensen, Todd Cole, Ronnie Cooke Newhouse, Nick Currie, Chris Dercon, Max Farago, Marcus Gaab, Tim Gutt, Daniel Haaksman, item idem, Jina Khayyer, Rattawut Lapcharoensap, Niklas Maak, Joe McKenna, Alasdair McLellan, Markus Miessen, Alex Needham, Anh-Linh Ngo, Peter Richter, Kari Rittenbach, Zac Rose, Alex Rühle, Viviane Sassen, Karl Schlögel, Heji Shin, David Benjamin Sherry, Slavs & Tatars, Tung Walsh, Clay Winston.
“A new world is coming into being almost unnoticed,” JOHN GRAY tells HANS ULRICH OBRIST about the political and financial unrest in the “Post-American Age”; photographer STEVEN MEISEL reveals fashion’s cruel and beautiful in a rare interview with PIERRE ALEXANDRE DE LOOZ (plus a 14-page foldout madness of all his Vogue Italia covers);
architect WES JONES illustrates Dubai and the effects of superabundance; artist ELAINE STURTEVANT tackles copy, copyright, and the ready-made; writer INGO NIERMANN portrays architect JÜRGEN MAYER H. as Germany’s greatest architecture hope since Bauhaus; art critic PETER RICHTER depicts artist RALF ZIERVOGEL’s world image in which someone exerts plausibility;
artists ROTHSTAUFFENBERG stage a masquerade ball in the Grand Hotel gone bad in Mozambique; product designers ONKAR KULAR and NOAM TORAN present the MacGuffin Library; stylist JOE MCKENNA encapsulates the season’s best moments in fashion; photographers MAX FARAGO and ALASDAIR MCLELLAN bring on “THE NUDES”; entrepreneur and art collector JEAN PIGOZZI mixes glamour with getting to bed early; artist collective ASSUME VIVID ASTRO FOCUS consecrate a summer of love;
the BERLIN REVIEW reflects on ten events, projects, and people from the past six months in Berlin; and so much more on 246 pages …
Contributors: Tabassom Charaf, Nick Currie, Roger Deckker, Max Farago, Oliver Helbig, item idem, Shanay Jhaveri, Alexey Kiselev, Onkar Kular, Holger Liebs, Joe McKenna, Alasdair McLellan, Steven Meisel, Tobias Moorstedt, Alex Needham, Ingo Niermann, Jean Pigozzi, Jones, Partners: Architecture, Sebastian Preuss, Sameer Reddy, Peter Richter, RothStauffenberg, Alice Ryan, Tobias Timm, Noam Toran, Clay Winston, Tobias Zielony, Ralf Ziervogel
“A museum should really be about memory systems—the storage of memory.” In our 40-page cover story on Munich’s HAUS DER KUNST, REM KOOLHAAS, JACQUES HERZOG, HANS ULRICH OBRIST, and MARK WIGLEY consider the museum’s history from Nazi temple to art laboratory.
Meanwhile, LAM magazine transforms Moscow youth culture; art director RICHARD PANDISCIO and Marc Jacobs’s ROBERT DUFFY school us in luxury marketing; photographer COLLIER SCHORR tells THOMAS DEMAND how she made Germany hers; curator OKWUI ENWEZOR explains how there are no innocents in modernism;
architect GREG LYNN curves his enthusiasm; writer JONATHAN FISCHER goes inside African pop music to find the sweet jingle of desperation; MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA celebrates its 20th; filmmaker DAVID LYNCH and the invincible Raja confuse Germany;
the BERLIN REVIEW reflects on ten events, projects, and people from the past six months in Berlin; and so much more on 268 pages …
Contributors: Jens Balzer, Jodie Barnes, Shumon Basar, Florian Böhm, Carmen Böker, Carson Chan, Tabassom Charaf, Todd Cole, Nick Currie, Thomas Demand, Chris Dercon, Todd Eberle, Jonathan Fischer, Marc Fischer, Jacques Herzog, Benjamin Alexander Huseby, item idem, Katerina Jebb, Sonja Junkers, Heinz Peter Knes, Rem Koolhaas, Alison Lee, Holger Liebs, Pierre Alexandre de Looz, Niklas Maak, Ari Marcopoulos, Maison Martin Margiela, Sebastian Mayer, Markus Miessen, Kito Nedo, Alex Needham, Hans Ulrich Obrist, Wilfried Petzi, Sebastian Preuss, Jason Schmidt, Collier Schorr, Christoph Seeberger, Payam Sharifi, Heji Shin, Sally Singer, Guy Tillim, Marion Vogel, Mark Wigley, Philippe and Césarie Yard.
“Complexity is irreducible—it is not reductionist. And this is the conviction I have and it has grown in all my work—you embrace it full on,” states structural engineer CECIL BALMOND in our 40-page cover story on him and the engineering firm he heads, ARUP, photographed by WOLFGANG TILLMANS.
Cecil Balmond is a structural engineer, author, and man of ideas; he is deputy chairman at the global design and engineering firm ARUP, and director of its think-tank, the Advanced Geometry Unit. Architects Rem Koolhaas, Zaha Hadid, and Toyo Ito, among others, are indebted to his groundbreaking structural work. Both Balmond and Tillmans have dismantled the very architecture of their genres—Balmond’s genre being architecture itself, and Tillmans’s being the representational genres of portraiture and still life. A dismantling pictured and reformulated in an image essay, in which Tillmans distills an early 21st-century office life so liberated by innovation that it is uninhibited by its cubicles.
Meanwhile, art director BEDA ACHERMANN indulges his fondness for beauty; artist and filmmaker SARAH MORRIS discusses China 2008, Pentagon security, and the fantasy of different times; artist TARYN SIMON questions “photography as a reliable witness” and hashes out her images’ quaking presence; IDEA magazine and T‘s STEFANO TONCHI allow us to glimpse the future of print; artist SPARTACUS CHETWYND presents “Phantasie Fotostudio”; atelier BOW-WOW’s MOMOYO KAIJIMA argues for architecture as research; artist MIKE KELLEY surprises us with formalism;
the BERLIN REVIEW reflects on ten events, projects, and people from the past six months in Berlin; and so much more on 258 pages …
Contributors: David Armstrong, Jens Balzer, Jodie Barnes, Joachim Bessing, Christopher Bollen, Emmelyn Butterfield-Rosen, Carson Chan, Tabassom Charaf, Clang, Todd Cole, Nick Currie, Roger Deckker, Aram Dikiciyan, Todd Eberle, Patrik Ervell, Estelle Hanania, Ingeborg Harms, Alex Hawgood, Oliver Helbig, Christian Jankowski, Cynthia Leung, Pierre-Alexandre de Looz, Niklas Maak, Alex Needham, Hans Ulrich Obrist, David Owen, Peter Richter, Tamara Rothstein, Jason Schmidt, Payam Sharifi, Hedi Slimane, Esthacus Teichwynd, Juergen Teller, Wolfgang Tillmans, Lukas Wassmann, Brigitte Werneburg, Paul Wetherell
“Maybe we only ever learn something when some form we think of as foreign provokes us—and we resist. But sometimes, many times, in the middle of the resistance, we end up loving this thing that has provoked us.” For 032c‘s 13th issue, we welcome art director MIKE MEIRÉ’s redesign with new forms of energy and experimentation.
Meanwhile, filmmaker WERNER HERZOG’s diary of his 1974 trip from Munich to Paris—on foot—documents a radical will for survival: “When I have to get up now, a mammoth will arise”; artist ANSELM REYLE manipulates light and color; artist JONATHAN MEESE manifests conflict in bronze; art critic NIKLAS MAAK abolishes the antagonism between ecology and high tech; architect and dean MARK WIGELY theorizes on the strange life forms of architecture with writer JOACHIM BESSING; artist CYPRIEN GAILLARD vandalizes modernism; architect EINAR THORSTEINN discusses NASA, the Golden Ration, and the “real questions”; designer NAOTO FUKASAWA talks to designer KONSTANTIN GRCIC and dissolves his products into our behavior; curator ROGER M. BUERGEL serves up a “content baroque”;
JEFF KOONS talks politics and fear; the three-part series AXIS OF EVIL profiles artist ANDREAS GURSKY penetrating the geo-political fortress that is North Korea, artist TREVOR PAGLEN turning his lens to the moonlight activities of the CIA, and photographer SIMON NORFOLK revealing new forms of war photography; Vogue features editor SALLY SINGER enunciates optimism and Vogue‘s idea of life;
the BERLIN REVIEW reflects on ten events, projects, and people from the past six months in Berlin; and so much more on 256 pages …
Contributors: Jodie Barnes, Melissa Bradshaw, Mathias Broeckers, Emmelyn Butterfield-Rosen, Carson Chan, Clang, Todd Cole, Roger Deckker, Todd Eberle,Simon Foxton, Eckert Gollnow, Konstantin Grcic, Andreas Gursky, Tim Gutt, Daniel Haaksmann, Shona Heath, Oliver Helbig, Eva Karcher, William T.Kolderup, Andrian Kreye, Serge Leblon, Pierre Alexandre de Looz, Niklas Maak, Geoff Manaugh, Michael Mann, Alasdair McLellan, Jonathan Meese, Simon Norfolk, Trevor Paglen, Michael Philouze, Tobias Rapp, Anselm Reyle, Nancy Rohde, Tamara Rothstein, Alice Ryan, Jan Schmidt-Garre, Payam Sharifi, Hedi Slimane, David Velasco, Lukas Wassmann, Paul Wetherell, Krzysztof Wojcik
“Our lives are threatened by imaginary sources, from images that haunt us—whether we’re in the subway, getting into a plane, or living in a skyscraper. Such pictures accompany us day and night, and we become as soft as butter,” proclaims political theorist HERFRIED MÜNKLER in our cover story on the POST-HEROIC world.
Meanwhile, photographer OLIVER HELBIG’s Iranian surfaces collide with photographer TODD EBERLE’s America; novelist THOMAS PYNCHON entropies intellectual motion; VANITY FAIR‘s editor GRAYDON CARTER discusses conflict, idiocy, and lives worth living; BIDOUN editor NEGAR AZIMI negotiates a Middle East-to-West transmission machine;
French actress AMIRA CASAR, photographed by JUERGEN TELLER, divulges an appreciation for Caspar David Friedrich, Thomas Bernhard, and metaphysics; artist RICHARD HAMILTON asks how far back we need to go to be modern in a conversation with REM KOOLHAAS and HANS ULRICH OBRIST, photographed by JUERGEN TELLER; science-fiction writer JEFF VANDERMEER uncovers the beauty in alien forms;
the BERLIN REVIEW reflects on eight events, projects, and people from the last six months in the great cultural laboratory; and so much more on 186 pages …
Contributors: Jens Balzer, Jodie Barnes, Fabien Baron, Joachim Bessing, Marc Brandenburg, Jonathon Cooke, Roger Deckker, Todd Eberle, Alexander Gorkow, Oliver Helbig, David Hughes, Eva Karcher, Kirby Koh, Rem Koolhaas, Andrian Kreye, Detlef Kuhlbrodt, Niklas Maak, Geoff Manaugh, Joe McKenna, Alasdair McLellan, Hans Ulrich Obrist, Ulf Poschardt, Sebastian Preuss, Thomas Pynchon, Sharmadean Reid, Fulvio Roiter, Tamara Rothstein, Tobias Rüther, Heji Shin, Brian J. Sholis, Valerie Stahl, Juergen Teller, Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin, Paul Wetherell, Jordan Wolfson
We began work on this issue with a simple question in mind: why is there so much more euphoria for Europe at the periphery, in the new and aspiring EU member states, than in the center? “From now on, the EU will be bold, explicit, popular,” states REM KOOLHAAS in our cover story on EUROPE ENDLESS. Foreign-policy thinker MARK LEONARD discusses how the European Union is as convincing an answer in the 20th century to globalization as it was to the problem of war in the 20th; AMO/OMA present a 28-page fold-out, graphic history of Europe since 1946;
writer NAVID KERMANI discovers the continent’s enthusiasm at its farthest edges; historian TONY JUDT tells how the West was an accident; writer KODWO ESHUN and photographer JUERGEN TELLER portray architect DAVID ADJAYE; artist collective SLAVS & TATARS redeem the East in Eastern Europe; artist / musician LINDER STERLING makes irony yield to the mythic again; artist MATTHEW BARNEY explores the sexual transmission between man and machine; writer DIETMAR DATH provokes the culture industry’s center with drastic arts;
art critic HARALD FRICKE on artist MARC BRANDENBURG’s dark power of signs; 1970s band THROBBING GRISTLE inaugurates both the beginning and end of pop; photographer TODD EBERLE exposes his Berlin diary;
the BERLIN REVIEW reflects on nine events, projects, and people from the last six months in the great cultural laboratory; and so much more on 192 pages …
Contributors: AMO/OMA, Jens Balzer, Jodie Barnes, Matthew Barney, Marc Brandenburg, Roger Deckker, Todd Eberle, Kodwo Eshun, Jason Evans, Eleanor Freiberger, Harald Fricke, Martin Germann, Akiko Hamaoka, Estelle Hanania, Oliver Helbig, David Hughes, Navid Kermani, Emily King, Andrian Kreye, Mark Leonard, Aram Lintzel, Niklas Maak, Michael Mann, Lucy McKenzie, Alasdair McLellan, Ingo Niermann, Peter Philips, Sebastian Preuss, Nancy Rhode, Peter Richter, Robi Rodriguez, Tasxmara Rothstein, Matt Saunders, Nigel Shafran, Payam Sharifi & Kasia Korczak, Hedi Slimane, Juergen Teller
In celebration of the 10th issue, 032c has collaborated with Niklas Maak (Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung) and Ashley Heath (The Face, Arena Homme+) as guest editors to find ten phenomena in which the contemporary unmistakably manifests itself. Because there is a movement interested in what might be made of the opportunities and challenges of our time—technologically, aesthetically, and socially. “The omnipresent retro-aesthetic is the most visible sign of a collective aesthetic and political paralysis. An entire generation has given up on its present and wallows in the forms of the past.”
Artist THOMAS DEMAND rebuilds the surfaces and lines of the Lamborghini Gallardo, a car whose form bears no reference to the past; OMA’s Casa da Música spirals in Porto as the last cowboy of modernism; Vogue Paris editor CARINE ROITFELD and art director FABIEN BARON flaunt their magazine; photographer OLIVER HELBIG celebrates Europe in Istanbul; SUNN O))) makes abstract music visceral and one-ups rock ‘n’ roll; collector INGVILD GOETZ takes art beyond the déjà vu;
politician HERMANN SCHEER pits the beautiful world of renewable energy against our industrial, archaic economy; structural engineer WERNER SOBEK discovers the aesthetic potential of solar technology; writer CHRISTIAN SCHWÄGERL unleashes the brain research that makes consciousness visible; designer KONSTANTIN GRCIC and architect GIO PONTI live dangerously and felicitously contemporary; art critic HARALD FRICKE unveils artist DOUGLAS GORDON’s pact with eternity; director CHRISTIAN PETZHOLD on the violence of locations;
the BERLIN REVIEW reflects on nine evens, projects, and people from the last six months in the great cultural laboratory; and so much more on 200 pages …
Contributors: Jens Balzer, Jodie Barnes, Fabien Baron, Joachim Bessing, Florian Böhm, Maurizio Cattelan, William Davidson, Roger Deckker, Thomas Demand, Chris Dercon, Jason Evans, Harald Fricke, Massimiliano Gioni, Ingvild Goetz, Konstantin Grcic, Oliver Helbig, LJ Hopkinson, Jürg Huber, David Hughes, Kirby Koh, Aram Lintzel, Alasdair McLellan, Eva Nahon, Carsten Nicolai, Sebastian Preuss, Olivier Rizzo, Agnés Rocamora, Nancy Rohde, Tamara Rothstein, Christian Schwägerl, Ali Subotnick, Anke Westphal, Paul Wetherell
“The extreme compression—the thickness—of the present, as we’ve only just now become able to experience it, brings with it an acceleration and a deceleration simultaneously—that’s why it’s also become extremely difficult to differentiate between the just past and the present,” says curator CHRIS DERCON on his theory of SYNCHRO-TIME.
Meanwhile, artist JAN DE COCK mixes Minimalism in Basque Country; Hungarian photographer GYÖRGY LÖRINCZY documents the feverish instability of downtown New York in the 1970s; artist collective ASSUME VIVID ASTRO FOCUS flaunts what’s sexy, devastating, awesome, and precious; artist CARSTEN NICOLAI pulses crystals with sound; writer DAVID FRANKEL uncovers the perfect absurdity about 1970s cult magazine ART-RITE; fashion historian CAROLINE EVANS distills HUSSEIN CHALAYAN’s utopia;
VITO ACCONCI practices an un-monumental architecture; photography duo INEZ VAN LAMSWEERDE and VINOODH MATADIN showcase MAN; photographer LEONORE MAU captures the Angel of History, rituals, and ethnography; art critic NIKLAS MAAK says goodbye to retro-futurism; writer ULF POSCHARDT on PRADA’s “Thunder Perfect Mind”; artist JONATHAN MEESE screams, “Richard Wagner is the greatest! He is his own law”;
the Berlin Review reflects on ten events, projects, and people from the last six months in the great cultural laboratory; and so much more on 176 pages …
Contributors: Albert G. Almond, assume vivid astro focus, Jens Balzer, Joachim Bessing, Klaus Biesenbach, Jan de Cock, Giannie Couji, Caroline Evans, Bertrand Fleuret, Nicola Formichetti, David Frankel, Lörinczy György, Heiko Hoffmann, Max Hollein, Ines Kaag, Heinz Peter Knes, Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin, Niklas Maak, Carsten Nicolai, Ingo Niermann, Ulf Poschardt, Sebastian Preuss, Norbert Schoerner, Sølve Sundsbø, Vier5
SPACE BEGINS BECAUSE WE LOOK AWAY FROM WHERE WE ARE: From LEWIS BALTZ’s prophetic images of the new industrial parks near Irvine, California in 1974 to the auto-generated red melted sugar landscapes by HERZOG DE MEURON, this issue features experiences and perceptions of space. “Without the user, all that’s there is material—and no space. I’m not presenting any sort of utopia, but rather, simply the possibility of how the space in front of my nose might be seen differently,” states artist OLAFUR ELIASSON in an interview with writer JOACHIM BESSING.
Meanwhile, photographer TAIJI MATSUE transforms landscapes into surfaces; artist LEWIS BALTZ prophesies in California’s empty industrial parks; architects HERZOG & DE MEURON melt topographies with sugar landscapes; art director HIDEKI NAKAJIMA distorts inner space; writer BRUCE CHATWIN visits KONSTANTIN MELNIKOV’s dilapidating Constructivist home in Moscow; photographer NICK KNIGHT reinvents fashion media with SHOWstudio; photographer STEVEN KLEIN paints BRAD PITT;
writer ALEXANDER VON SHÖNBURG explains actor HELMUT BERGER’s angels, demons, and having all the parties; publisher and designer JOP VAN BENNEKOM speaks with Editor-in-Chief of Interview magazine INGRID SISCHY about 35 years of Pop;
TIME CAPSULE communicates the remarkable people, projects, and moments of our time; and so much more on 183 pages …
Contributors: An Architektur, Lewis Baltz, Jop van Bennekom, Joachim Bessing, Lee Broomfield, Sem Rubio Chico, Paul Elliman, Sabisha Friedberg, Genevieve Gauckler, Sebastian Hammelehle, Herzog & de Meuron, Mark Hooper, Benjamin Alexander Huseby, Steven Klein, Aglaia Konrad, Aram Lintzel, Niklas Maak, Taiji Matsue, Alasdair McLellan, Peter Michalzik, Hideki Nakajima, Alexander von Schönburg, Libby Sellers
AT WAR WITH THE OBVIOUS: From the implosion of the white cube to the tristesse of Berlin, this issue presents positions that strike against the unholy trinity of cool, taste and ignorance. “The obvious is as omnipresent and stylish as it is inconspicuous and banal, yet possesses no attitude—it is the Western world’s depressing vanishing point.”
Photographer GREGOR SCHNEIDER exposes the underbelly of “517 West 24th Street, New York”; graphic designer PETER SAVILLE finds something in everything; photographer BENJAMIN ALEXANDER HUSEBY unveils tomorrows; Comme des Garçons designer REI KAWAKUBO presents the subtleties of bold shades of perception; artist MASAO MOCHIZUKI archives television; writer EMILY KING dissects ARCHIS—the magazine as monster; fashion historian CAROLINE EVANS explains how designer ALEXANDER MCQUEEN magics images and ideas out of air;
musician BRIAN ENO and artist PETER SCHMIDT deal out perforated cards of oblique strategies; architect YONA FRIEDMAN mobilizes un-built cities; historian ERIC HOBSBAWM tells writer CHRISTIAN ESCH how Marxism wasn’t Main Street; architect JAN KAPLICKY speaks with artist MARIA FUSCO about the sublime, surface wreckage, and fashion; writer JOACHIM BESSING asks filmmaker ROMUALD KARMAKAR how to rattle consensus; and so much more on 128 pages …
Contributors: Joachim Bessing, Brian Eno / Peter Schmidt, Christian Esch, Caroline Evans, Maria Fusco, Benjamin Alexander Huseby, Drew Jarrett, Rei Kawakubo, Emily King, Heinz Peter Knes, Niklas Maak, Masao Mochizuki, Raymond Pettibon, Peter Saville, Gregor Schneider
WHEN ATTITUDE BECOMES FORM: From the Cremaster field to the new domestic landscape, this issue presents the attitudes that shape forms through different times and media: 032c‘s entirely subjective selection of the movements that liberate us from conformity. Photographer SØLVE SUNDSBØ captures the monument of isolation;
UNDERCOVER designer JUN TAKAHASHI blinds prophets, dignitaries, and other cultural icons in a series of black-and-white illustrations; writers and graffiti artists NUG & PIKE collide tagging with trance rituals; photographer ALASDAIR MCLELLAN finds adolescence’s last idyll; artist MATTHEW BARNEY takes us behind the scenes of his CREMASTER CYCLE; writer EMILY KING digs up ASPEN magazine’s protest against uniformity;
stylist and accessories designer JUDY BLAME talks with MARK HOOPER about Buffalo style, his dodgy relationship to the public, and looking stubbornly different; architecture movements SUPERSTUDIO and ARCHIZOOM disappear design; graphic designer and publisher JOP VAN BENNEKOM finds a language that is “part of” things, not hovering “above” them;
artist LIAM GILLICK plasters public information posters; writer and filmmaker ALEXANDER KLUGE elaborates on what it takes to define a social climate and being able to “throw it away if it amounts to nothing”; and so much more on 120 pages …
Contributors: Matthew Barney, Joachim Bessing, Jesko Fezer, Liam Gillick, Oliver Helbig, Mark Hooper, Emily King, Alasdair McLellan, Nug & Pike, Solve Sundsbo, Jun Takahashi/Undercover, Axel Wieder, 032c workshop
A combination of East and West, Shanghai was the temporary autonomous zone of poverty, refinement, and decadence in the 1920s and 30s. Now, Shanghai hypnotizes with an urban explosion and rapid modernization: This issue captures Shanghai’s state of mind in 2003.
“Some cities are just constructed in concrete, but some can ignite our collective fantasy and make a grand promise of change and excitement. They capture our imagination before we have even visited the city. Much like Berlin, Shanghai projects a larger-than-life shadow on the observer.” 032c workshop documents the acceleration of the city, while photographers OLIVER HELBIG and HEJI SHIN bird eye its deconstruction / construction; artist YANG FUDONG reveals love in an estranged paradise, while graphic designer SHEN HAPENG spackles calligraphy; photographer WING SHYA depicts insomnia in a sleepless city, while photographer SAIMON FUJIO revels in its dreamscape;
032c workshop edits a SHANGHAI DATASCAPE culled from a variety of sources to test the possibilities of experiencing speed, density, and verticality by statistics; and much more on 96 pages …
Contributors: Shen Haopeng, Oliver Helbig & Heji Shin, Yang Fudong, Saimon Fujio, Wing Shya, 032c workshop
EMBRACE INSTABILITY localizes moments of instability in different places and times: From riot on the streets of Tokyo, 1969, to the beauty of snow crystals, this issue celebrates the unstable states where anything can happen. “Tracking the trajectory of any system, one may find that, in certain situations, the trajectory becomes less and less stable and disintegrates into a multitude of new trajectories.”
Photographer MICHAEL SCHMIDT takes us back to West Berlin in the 1980s; artist CARSTEN NICOLAI juxtaposes unpredictable models of self-organization; photographer DAIDO MORIYAMA affects provocation with 1960s Japan; photographer HEJI SHIN portrays female relationships; graphic designer MARKUS WEISBECK / SURFACE challenges the white cube and black box with new spatial parameters; fashion historian CAROLINE EVANS explores whether COMME DES GARÇONS makes us objects or subjects; editor ASHLEY HEATH talks with MARK HOOPER about the beauty of pop in its mess and confusion; art critic NIKLAS MAAK reveals MEXICO CITY in its fragile equilibrium of desire and fear; architect YONA FRIEDMAN offers up the best possible universe where anything can happen; writer and theorist EUGENE THACKER on the science fictioning of biotechnology; and much more on 112 pages …
Contributors: Michael Schmidt, Carsten Nicolai / Raster-Noton, Heji Shin, Markus Weisbeck / Surface, Daido Moriyama, Caroline Evans, Niklas Maak, Mark Hooper, Yona Friedman, Eugene Thacker
“We are entering the age of the liquefaction of form,” states design firm VOGT + WEIZENEGGER in 032c’s third issue on WHAT’S NEXT.
Writer DARIO AZZELLINI interviews TUTE BIANCHE activists on the beginnings and background of the Italian political movement; artists / musicians CHICKS ON SPEED find out what LE TIGRE thinks of women and Europe; artist FLORIAN PUMHÖSL photographs a missile manufacturer; designer JEREMY SCOTT clothes Madonna in dollar bills; art critic PETER RICHTER exposes the clash between the will and the actual ways of Berlin;
art critic NIKLAS MAAK reveals architecture’s burgeoning biomorphic forms; artist CARSTEN HÖLLER writes on doubt, productivity, and the state of rotation; designer HELMUT LANG talks about fashion’s business proportions, how there are no new means of expression and no cause for new expression, and how to act with extreme individuality; club operator and photographer BEN DE BIEL, director DEBORAH SCHAMONI, and political scientist SULTAN KARIMI provide a kaleidoscopic view on Berlin beyond the hype by talking about their jobs;
visual contributions by FOUNDATION 33, CHEWING THE SUN, MASAMICHI KATAYAMA, and HIDEKI NAKAJIMA; and much more on 48 pages…
Contributors: Dario Azzellini, Chewing the Sun, Chicks on Speed, Olafur Eliasson, Foundation 33, Carsten Höller/Jens Hoffmann, Stephen Gan/Tobias Schweitzer, Masamichi Katayama, Nicolette Krebitz/ Elisha Smith-Leverock, Niklas Maak, Hideki Nakajima, Ulf Poschardt, Florian Pumhösl, Peter Richter, Jeremy Scott, State Design, Vogt + Weizenegger
“This constant flow necessitates that old ideas are destroyed and demands that new ones are created,” states fashion director ANNE CHRISTENSEN in 032c‘s second issue, on destruction.
Artist SANTIAGO SIERRA pays the poor to be tattooed; sociologist WOLFGANG KRAUSHAAR on GUSTAV METZGER’s auto-destructive art and its influence in rock music; photographer MARIO TESTINO slashes a model in red; photographer MICHAEL MANN escapes the boundaries of realism; designer RAF SIMONS redresses youth; writer ULF POSCHARDT on the nature of destruction in fashion and architecture; art critic NIKLAS MAAK reveals the sweet revenge of the PALAST DER REPUBLIK, Berlin;
architect CEDRIC PRICE speaks with HANS ULRICH OBRIST about how time is the fourth dimension; music journalist HEIKO HOFFMAN delineates nine destructive moments in music; artist RICHARD PHILLIPS shatters beauty; Architecture collective 37.6°, musician HANIN ELIAS, and writer and programmer SEBASTIAN LUETGERT provide a kaleidoscopic view on Berlin beyond the hype by talking about their jobs;
graphic contributions by BÜRO DESTRUCT, MIKE MEIRÉ, and MIRKO BORSCHE; and much more on 48 pages …
Contributors: Mirko Borsche, Büro Destruct, Anne Christensen, Heiko Hoffmann, Honey Suckle Company, Wolfgang Kraushaar, Niklas Maak, Michael Mann, Mike Meiré, Hans Ulrich Obrist, Ulf Poschardt, Christopher Roth, Samia Saouma, Santiago Sierra, Raf Simons, Mario Testino, Axel Wieder.
“PROFESSIONALISM is used and abused to justify the unjustifiable, the boring, the banal. If it only meant caring enough about what you do and who you work with to make fanaticism, argument, neuroses, crises, the passions of the heart, total psycho meltdown, examples of its appearance as much as its disappearance, I’d sign up to it. As it stands, I doubt I will,” states publisher PAULINE VAN MOURIK BROEKMAN in 032c‘s premiere issue.
Filmmaker HARMONY KORINE postulates The Bad Son with Macaulay Culkin; writer GARY WOLF discusses architect FRANK GEHRY’S “minimal friction” and architect REM KOOLHAAS’s “generous cruelty”; writer and new media scholar MATTHEW FULLER brings the Internet to the Caribbean countryside and ghettos; writer DAVID HUDSON on how dot-coms became uncool; MORITZ VON USLAR talks to RAF (Red Army Faction) terrorist MANFRED GRASHOF on how to survive underground; JESKO FEZER details in a short story the daily routines of METABOLISM in Japanese architecture and urban development;
designer HEDI SLIMANE waits for Catherine Deneuve in the recording studio; filmmaker CHRISTOPHER ROTH proves that no one stops footballer Figo; photographer DANIEL JOSEFSOHN takes us into JACK NICHOLSON’s bedroom; designer VLADIMIR KAGAN explains how after being a legendary professional, he’s now interested in the games people play; furniture gallerist HANS-PETER JOCHUM, security advisor SMILEY BALDWIN, and fashion design INES KAAG of BLESS provide a kaleidoscopic view on Berlin beyond the hype by talking about their jobs;
graphic contributions by VOGT + WEIZENEGGER, MILK, MINA HAGEDORN, GOB SQUAD, WENDY & JIM, DAVID LINDERMANN, and KATE MERKLE; and much more on 48 pages …
Contributors: Bless, Kira Bunse, Chicks on Speed feat. Walter Schönauer, Jesko Fezer, Matthew Fuller, Gob Squad, Mina Hagedorn, David Hudson, Terry Jones, Tricia Jones, Daniel Josefsohn, Harmony Korine, Claudius Lazzeroni, David Lindeman, Niklas Maak, Milk Projects, Pauline van Mourik Broekman, Christopher Roth, Hedi Slimane, Moritz von Uslar, Vogt & Weizenegger, Wendy & Jim, Gary Wolf