AMERICA

I see the boys lined up in PATRIK ERVELL, scheduled to bloom in the spring and end after summer’s heat. The models walk out from backstage in their individual reveries: eyes open, mind elsewhere. Watching them pass through a pathway of light, I think of Northern California. In San Francisco, a clear white light streams in as the sun rises; by mid-day, a fine fog gently mutes the landscape, marking time before nightfall. The subtle, transparent layers in Patrik Ervell’s menswear collection grow when hit by the light: the yellow oilcloth parka in thin cotton becomes translucent, the effect like spilling grease on paper. Classic American staples like denim jeans and are altered and dipped in pastel hues – as if accidentally washed in the laundry with a colored sock. The signature nylon windbreakers worn with unstructured suiting both protect and reflect, stepping away from the contrived, and into a feeling that is more romantic and austere. “I try to keep it pure and simple,” says Ervell, “to basic elements like color and light.” The effect, like Californian sunlight, is magical.

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lambskin jacket, snap collar buttondown shirt, pleated pants
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latex raincoat, striped rugby shirt
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nylon parachute jacket, night buttondown shirt, pastel pink jeans
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oilcloth parka, snap collar buttondown, pastel pink jeans
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cotton and alpaca checkerboard sweater, pastel yellow jeans
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tuxedo shirt with silk inset, silk scarf, pleated pants
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oilcloth parka

Photography by CLANG
Fashion by PATRIK ERVELL
Model ARTHUR FOX@REQUEST MODEL MANAGEMENT

Hair JEFF FRANCIS@THE WALL GROUP; studio FAST ASHLEYS STUDIO; post production YAU DIGITAL IMAGING;

Published in

Issue #14 — Winter 2007/2008Cecil Balmond

“Complexity is irreducible—it is not reductionist. And this is the conviction I have and it has grown in all my work—you embrace it full on,” states structural engineer CECIL BALMOND in our 40-page cover story on him and the engineering firm he heads, ARUP, photographed by WOLFGANG TILLMANS.  

Cecil Balmond is a structural engineer, author, and man of ideas; he is deputy chairman at the global design and engineering firm ARUP, and director of its think-tank, the Advanced Geometry Unit. Architects Rem Koolhaas, Zaha Hadid, and Toyo Ito, among others, are indebted to his groundbreaking structural work. Both Balmond and Tillmans have dismantled the very architecture of their genres—Balmond’s genre being architecture itself, and Tillmans’s being the representational genres of portraiture and still life. A dismantling pictured and reformulated in an image essay, in which Tillmans distills an early 21st-century office life so liberated by innovation that it is uninhibited by its cubicles.

Meanwhile, art director BEDA ACHERMANN indulges his fondness for beauty; artist and filmmaker SARAH MORRIS discusses China 2008, Pentagon security, and the fantasy of different times; artist TARYN SIMON questions “photography as a reliable witness” and hashes out her images’ quaking presence; IDEA magazine and T‘s STEFANO TONCHI allow us to glimpse the future of print; artist SPARTACUS CHETWYND presents “Phantasie Fotostudio”; atelier BOW-WOW’s MOMOYO KAIJIMA argues for architecture as research; artist MIKE KELLEY surprises us with formalism;

the BERLIN REVIEW reflects on ten events, projects, and people from the past six months in Berlin; and so much more on 258 pages …

Contributors: David Armstrong, Jens Balzer, Jodie Barnes, Joachim Bessing, Christopher Bollen, Emmelyn Butterfield-Rosen, Carson Chan, Tabassom Charaf, Clang, Todd Cole, Nick Currie, Roger Deckker, Aram Dikiciyan, Todd Eberle, Patrik Ervell, Estelle Hanania, Ingeborg Harms, Alex Hawgood, Oliver Helbig, Christian Jankowski, Cynthia Leung, Pierre-Alexandre de Looz, Niklas Maak, Alex Needham, Hans Ulrich Obrist, David Owen, Peter Richter, Tamara Rothstein, Jason Schmidt, Payam Sharifi, Hedi Slimane, Esthacus Teichwynd, Juergen Teller, Wolfgang Tillmans, Lukas Wassmann, Brigitte Werneburg, Paul Wetherell