NIGHTHAWKS: 032c Readytowear Autumn/Winter 2024

January 22, 2024

032c launches NIGHTHAWKS, the Autumn/Winter collection from 032c Readytowear. The release marked the brand’s first runway staged during Men’s Paris Fashion Week at L’Oratoire du Louvre.

Watch the 032c Show at L’Oratoire du Louvre on January 18, 2024, HERE.

PRESS RELEASE

Channeling the ungraspable, seemingly ageless realism of painter Edward Hopper and the murky, moody color landscape of painter Victor Man, NIGHTHAWKS, according to the collection statement, is an uncompromising, ahistorical take on the notion of timelessness, intended to provide a versatile yet enigmatic city “uniform.”

NIGHTHAWKS takes ‘timelessness’ ruthlessly. The 032c Readytowear Autumn/Winter 2024 collection is anti-Zeitgeist, a refusal to engage the present or anticipate the near future, like fashion is supposed to do. NIGHTHAWKS rejects the nostalgia and cynicism that have become bound to the contemporary in favor of a brutally urban realism that knows no epoch. It is a uniform designed not for the season, but for the city and the self.

NIGHTHAWKS is about seeing, a study in prisms and palettes. Every garment’s hue is tenderly caressed as though by soot. No grayed-out blue or moss-dark green, no murky burgundy or lakebed brown goes beyond the edge to approach a color that is frank or “pure.” NIGHTHAWKS sees not through a corrective, sharpened lens, but through a street-level fog. Every surface is as though thinly veiled, yet every outline is sharp. Slim-cut silhouettes glow through the vapor like icons, secular saints of electricity and the night.

NIGHTHAWKS finds opulence in objectivity and observation, decadence in silence. Lurex punctures raglan knits like rays of light through somber clouds; broken viscose lets the glow in, too. For evening: drapery and muted sequins, quietly incandescent on tops and dresses, leggings and beanies. Every look is “day to night” if the sun is never out in the first place.

Outfits tighten as the wearer turns within, crossing from the outside world into their own experience. Suiting, mostly black, goes from loose to confining. Some garments stretch to yield to the shift, but others do not: tailored jackets, trousers, and pencil skirts are taut; jeans are skinny; denims are overdyed and unyielding; hoodies and bombers are cut almost too close.

Cotton and knit layers meet outerwear – parkas, shearling and down jackets, leather coats and tactical trousers, a calf leather scarf, a synthetic fur – built for the eternity of a fluorescently lit diner window, and for the darkened streets outside it. NIGHTHAWKS is clothing that softens harsh realities and strengthens fragile ones.

PARTNERSHIPS

For NIGHTHAWKS, 032c partnered with Alpha Industries for a co-branded capsule showcase and with Berlin eyewear brand MYKITA for Alpine model sunglasses. Additional partners for the show included BYREDO for make-up, PHYTO for hair, SCAROSSO for shoes, Kitty Events, and Germany’s BETT1.

PRESS

THE NEW YORK TIMES

“There was a promisingly slick debut by Maria Koch at the newly founded luxury label 032c (shown on models that made the ’90s waifs seem stout).” - READ MORE

“Maria and Joerg Koch of magazine-plus-fashion-line 032c meanwhile presented a physical manifestation of fashion fan-fic for a young and obsessive crowd at their first runway show. The Berlin-based Kochs have attended hundreds of these things, and theirs was a total blast, with hip-swinging appearances by cool-kid supermodels Mona Tougaard and Paul Hameline and tough (in a good way, very Berlin) flight jackets and nylon trousers.” - READ MORE

HYPEBEAST

“Revealing its Fall/Winter 2024 to press from around the world, the media brand shows the fashion industry how it is transforming into a luxury fashion label. Joerg and Maria Koch said, ‘Nobody asked us to do a show at Paris Fashion Week. And nobody asked us to transform a media brand into a luxury fashion brand. Yet here we are.’” - READ MORE

VOGUE RUNWAY

“For fall, Koch said that she wanted to develop a versatile urban uniform. Having the 032c magazine as a sort of wellspring of fashion data with a tight readership equal parts cool and metropolitan, Koch is well situated to assess exactly what city dwellers want to wear.” - READ MORE

HARPER'S BAZAAR

“Just please don't expect a hype collection at this point. What Maria Koch is presenting on the catwalk for autumn/winter 2024/25, for women and men, is not short-lived and fast - but versatile, enigmatic, even timeless. A uniform for the city. For day and night, even if the collection is titled ‘Nighthawks.’ In German: ‘night owls.’” - READ MORE

ESSENTIAL HOMME

“... there was an undeniable spark. Koch’s anti-timelessness was refreshing. Instead of chasing fleeting trends or clinging to dusty notions of classicism, she creates clothes for the here and now, unencumbered by the past or the future. This collection may not be a flawless exercise, but it’s a bold statement of intent from a brand with a unique voice and a dedicated following. 032c’s urban nomads have found their uniform – the rest of the world is just catching up.” - READ MORE

WWD

“All the glamour added to 032c signature elements, but Koch showed a continued evolution from the brand's streetwear roots.” - READ MORE

STYLE NOT COM

“Fashion newsstand reunited in person.”

ATTENDANCE

The show was attended by Trippie Redd, Bill Kaulitz, Rich the Kid, Luka Sabbat, Caro Daur, Bryanboy, Clermont Twins, Ines Rau, Veronika Heilbrunner, Justin O’Shea, Raya Martigny, Jessie Andrews, Trystan Pütter, Chris Dercon, Marco Brambilla, Dr. Emi, and Tyrone Dylan, among others.

Willy Cartier, Tyrone Dylan, Luka Sabbat

Luka Sabbat, Maria Koch, Bill Kaulitz, Caro Daur

RUNWAY PHOTOS

Mona Tougaard wearing “GATTACA” TIGHT SUIT JACKET (Virgin Wool) and “GATTACA” TIGHT SUIT TROUSER (Virgin Wool)

André Fuelner wearing “OSL2BER” DROPPED WAIST PARKA (Organic Cotton), “OFFICE” OVERSIZED SHIRT (Cotton), TACTICAL TROUSERS (Organic Cotton), and ALPINE 032C | MYKITA SUNGLASSES

Hedi Ben Tekaya wearing DROP COAT (Wool and Polyamide), LOGO CASHMERE BLEND SWEATER (Wool and Cashmere), “OLD MASTERS” REGULAR SHIRT (Cotton), and “PORTRAIT” WIDE LEG SUIT TROUSERS (Virgin Wool, Nylon, and Lycra)

Paul Hameline wearing “PORTRAIT” DOUBLE BREASTED SUIT JACKET (Virgin Wool, Nylon, and Lycra), “EQUINOX” CARDIGAN, and “PORTRAIT” WIDE LEG SUIT TROUSERS (Virgin Wool, Nylon, and Lycra)

Birte Carolin wearing WOVEN “JOSEPHINE” FAKE FUR JACKET, “OFFICE” OVERSIZED SHIRT (Cotton), and SKINNY LEATHER STRETCH TROUSERS (Lamb Leather)

Ekko wearing DROP COAT (Wool and Polyamide), “LAZER SELFIE” SWEATER (Wool), “REALIST” BOXY OVERSHIRT (Cotton), and STRAIGHT CUT SUIT TROUSERS (Wool)

Rachel Marx wearing “JOSEPHINE” FAKE FUR JACKET, “REALIST” FLANNEL SHIRT (Cotton), and "GOYA” SKINNY JEAN (Organic Cotton)

Feng wearing LEATHER “BUTTERY” SHEARLING JACKET (Lamb Leather), “REALIST” FLANNEL SHIRT (Cotton), and WIDE LEG SUIT TROUSERS (Wool)

Huijia Chen wearing LUMINOUS “PORTRAIT” DOUBLE BREASTED SUIT JACKET (Bi-Color Laminated Wool) and LUMINOUS “UMA” MINI SKIRT (Bi-Color Laminated Wool)

Sara Caballero wearing THE FLIGHT BOMBER (Nylon), MID LAYER GILET (Nylon), STRAIGHT CUT TROUSERS (Nylon), and “OFFICE” OVERSIZED SHIRT (Cotton)

Stella Maxwell wearing TIGHT CUT FLIGHT BOMBER (Nylon) and STRAIGHT CUT TROUSERS (Nylon)

Lewin Allenberg wearing “OFFICE FRUIT” OVERSIZED LONGSLEEVE (Organic Cotton), STRAIGHT CUT TROUSERS (Nylon), “SELFIE” GLOVES (Merino Wool), “NIGHTHAWKS” BACKPACK (Nylon), and CLASSIC LEATHER BELT (Calf Leather)

Yilan Hua wearing SUPER SIZE OVERSHIRT (Nylon) and PENCIL SKIRT (Nylon)

Haoran Xu wearing SHEARLING EXPLORER PARKA (Lamb Shearling), “NERVE SHATTER” BOXY LONGSLEEVE, and GRAINY TACTICAL LEATHER TROUSERS (Calf Leather)

Wale Deutsch wearing SUPER SIZE OVERSHIRT (Nylon), KNIT “NERVE SHATTER” BOXY LONGSLEEVE (Organic Cotton), and STRAIGHT CUT SUIT TROUSERS (Wool)

Sacha Quenby wearing “PORTRAIT” DOUBLE BREASTED SUIT JACKET (Virgin Wool, Nylon, and Lycra) and “PORTRAIT” LOOSE CUT SUIT TROUSERS (Virgin Wool, Nylon, and Lycra)

Nina Marker wearing “GOYA” DENIM SHIRT (Cotton), “GOYA” SKINNY JEAN (Cotton), ALPINE 032c | MYKITA SUNGLASSES, and “NIGHTHAWKS” SHOULDER BAG (Nylon)

Luigi wearing DROP COAT (Wool and Polyamide), “GOYA” DENIM SHIRT, FLIGHT SUIT OVERALL (Recycled cotton), and “IRENE” SEQUINNED EVENING BEANIE (Polyamide)

Teun van Stein wearing “GOYA” DENIM SHIRT (Cotton), “GOYA” STRAIGHT LEG JEAN (Organic Cotton), and ALPINE 032C | MYKITA SUNGLASSES

Baruk Tomás wearing “GOYA” DENIM JACKET (Organic Cotton), “GOYA” DENIM SHIRT (Cotton), and “GOYA” WIDE LEG JEAN (Organic Cotton)

Agel Akol wearing “GOYA” DENIM SHIRT (Cotton) and “GOYA” SKINNY JEAN (Cotton)

Issa Lish wearing “UMA” SKINNY LEATHER TROUSERS (Lamb Leather and Cotton) and FLUID VELVET BLOUSE

Nizar Talal wearing “ANTI-GAUGUIN” FAUX FUR BLOUSON, “OLD MASTERS” REGULAR SHIRT (Cotton), “VICTOR” FITTED SWEATPANTS (Recycled Cotton), and LOGO CASHMERE BLEND BEANIE (Wool and Cashmere)

Adam Castellano wearing “REALIST” LEATHER SHIRT, “VICTOR” FITTED SWEATPANTS (Recycled Cotton), ALPINE 032c | MYKITA SUNGLASSES, and “NIGHTHAWKS” BACKPACK (Nylon)

Hedi Ben Tekaya wearing “REALIST” FLANNEL SHIRT (Cotton), “VICTOR” FITTED SWEATPANTS (Recycled Cotton and Elastane),
“HARDCORE FRIENDSHIP” KEYCHAIN (Nylon), and “NIGHTHAWKS” LANYARD WALLET (Nylon)

Sara Caballero wearing “PORTRAIT” WOOL COAT, “IRENE” SEQUINNED EVENING DRESS (Polyamide), and “IRENE” SEQUINNED EVENING BEANIE (Polyamide)

Sonny Hall wearing “PORTRAIT” DOUBLE BREASTED TIGHT SUIT JACKET (Virgin Wool, Nylon, and Lycra), “OLD MASTERS” REGULAR SHIRT (Cotton), “PORTRAIT” WIDE LEG SUIT TROUSERS (Virgin Wool, Nylon, and Lycra), and “IRENE” SEQUINNED EVENING BEANIE (Polyamide)

André Feulner wearing “CLAY” UTILITY BOMBER JACKET (Nylon) and “VICTOR” FITTED SWEATPANTS (Recycled Cotton)

Rachel Marx wearing “SPACE PROGRAM” LEATHER COAT (Calf Leather), “IRENE” SEQUINNED TOP (Polyamide and Elastane), “IRENE” SEQUINNED LEGGINGS (Polyamide and Elastane), “NIGHTHAWKS” LANYARD WALLET (Nylon), and “IRENE” SEQUINNED EVENING BEANIE (Polyamide)

Haoran Xu wearing “ORION” LEATHER COAT (Calf Leather), “REALIST” LEATHER SHIRT (Calf Leather), and “UMA” LEATHER TROUSERS (Calf Leather)

Nina Marker wearing “UMA” LEATHER BIKER JACKET (Calf Leather), “UMA” LEATHER MINI SKIRT (Calf Leather), and “UMA” LEATHER SCARF (Calf Leather)

Yilan Hua wearing DRAPED “SWAN” LONG DRESS (Polyamide and Elastane)

Ekko wearing “PORTRAIT” DOUBLE BREASTED TIGHT SUIT JACKET (Virgin Wool, Nylon, and Lycra), “IRENE” SEQUINNED TOP (Polyamide and Elastane), and “PORTRAIT” WIDE LEG SUIT TROUSERS (Virgin Wool, Nylon, and Lycra)

Feng wearing FLIGHT SUIT OVERALL (Nylon), GRAINY VEST (Calf Leather), and “SELFIE” GLOVES (Merino Wool)

Paul Hameline wearing “THE FLIGHT BOMBER” (Nylon), STRAIGHT CUT TROUSERS (Nylon), “OFFICE” OVERSIZED SHIRT (Cotton), and ALPINE 032c | MYKITA SUNGLASSES

Baruc Tomás wearing “SELFIE” CARDIGAN (Cotton, Alpaca Wool, Merino Wool, and Polyamide), LOGO BUBBLE CREWNECK (Organic Cotton), STRAIGHT LEG SUIT TROUSERS (Wool), and CLASSIC LEATHER BELT (Cow Leather)

Nizar Talal wearing “CLAY” TENT PARKA (Garment Dyed Nylon and Down Filling), “OLD MASTERS” REGULAR SHIRT (Cotton), and “VICTOR” FITTED SWEATPANTS (Recycled Cotton)